Mt. Lhakpa Ri Expedition 7045m.
Difficulty : Strenuous
Reference Code: LRECN
Trip Start: Kathmandu
Trek Start: Lhasa
Trek Days: 22 days
Peak Climbing Period: 5 days
Maximum Altitude: 7045m.
Age: 20-60 years
Season: Spring and Autumn
Service: Full Board
Trip End: Kathmandu
Trek End: Lhasa
Trip Durations: 27 days
Peak Grade: Extreme
Physical Rating: Strenuous
Group Size: 4-12
Mt. Lhakpa Ri 7045m. is becoming the newly famous expedition in Tibet and many climbers these days have been attracted to climbing this mountain through the Tibet side. It divides the upper east Rombuk and Kharta glacier. It is close to Mount Everest and you feel equal to having climbed Mount Everest the moment, you reach the top of this mountain.
It was first climbed by George Mallory, who was on his way to the Everest reconnaissance in 1921, and he had seen the north col. Bill Tilman made the second ascent during his Everest reconnaissance in 1936. The third ascent was made by French Everest summiteer Michelle Pella in 1988 and the fourth ascent by Ken McConnell in 1991. The current expedition teams follow the same routes as the previous four expedition teams used in the past.
Day 01 Arrival in Kathmandu
Namaste! And welcome to Kathmandu, the colourful capital of Nepal where ornately carved balconies mingle with beautiful shrines and temples. Your adventure begins with a welcome meeting on arrival at the exit gate of Kathmandu airport. Our staff will welcome you and pick you to your accommodated hotel. Please seek our company palmplate to find our staff at the main exit gate of the airport. Rest of the day you can relax at the hotel or short evening walk around local market on your own as per your wish.
Approximate Driving Hours: 30 minutes
Meals include: None
Day 02 Rest and Tibet visa procedure day
A well deserved rest day at cosy of hotel after a long tiring flight. This day we will proceed for Tibet Visa for Expedition.
Meals include: Breakfast
Day 03 Rest and preparation day
This day, one can move around nearby local market to purchase or hire trekking equipment that is necessary for the trekking like sleeping bags, walking sticks etc, exchange currency as requirement or simply walk around in the local market or Kathmandu Durbar squire nearby with small entrance fee as per your preference on your own. Evening at the hotel lobby there will be pre-trip briefing in which you will be introduced with your trekking guide and explained about your trip in short, instruction for safety etc.
Meals include: Breakfast
Approx. 5 hrs drive
Meals include: Breakfast
Day 07 Drive to Tingri 4350m.
Approx. 5/6 Hrs Drive
Meals include: Breakfast
Day 08 Rest for Acclimatization
Meals include: Breakfast
Drive To Chinese Base Camp – 5200 M, Approx. 5 Hrs Drive
Day 14-18 Climb Lhakpa Ri 7045
You set off across the glacier roped up though there are few crevasses and the going is easy until you reach slopes leading up to the North Ridge. Most of the route up the ridge is about 20° to 30° and you will move together as roped teams. The views from the summit towards the north face of Everest are superb. Descend back to ABC.
Day 20 North Col Extension
This extension is available to those with the necessary experience and needs to be booked in advance. The entire route to the col is fixed with ropes and these provide security and assistance as you weave up between seracs of ice, crossing ladders in places. Most of the route is 20° to 40°, but there are usually some short steeper sections. The descend to ABC involves multiple abseils.
Day 26 Rest and final shopping day
A chance to do some shopping, explore at leisure or merely relax by the hotel. We enjoy a final night together, reliving the trek and our extraordinary achievements.
Meals include: Breakfast
Day 27 Final departure
We say 'Namaste' for memories that will last a lifetime. There are no activities planned for today and you are able to depart the hotel at any time. Check out time from the hotel is at 12 noon. If you are departing later, you can arrange luggage storage at the hotel. For your final departure, our staff will pick you up from the hotel and transfer to Kathmandu airport approximately 3 hours prior to your international flight time.
Driving hours: 40 minutes
Meals include: Breakfast
- Airport/Hotel/Airport transfers
- 5 nights in Kathmandu Hotel Gokarna on BB
- Flight Kathmandu- Lhasa for member
- Bus Transfer from KTMBC to Kerong & to Kathmandu for member & staffs
- Everest Expedition Permit, 1 Tibetan Government Liaison officer/ Interpreter
- Food for Trekking to ABC and for Base Camp for member & staffs
- 1 High altitude climbing Sherpa for two Expedition member
- 1 Bottle oxygen with Mask & Regulator for member
- High Altitude climbing Equipments & Food for member & Sherpa
- 15 EPI high altitude cooking Gas each pax , High cooking stove and cooking pots
- 1 Cook & Kitchen Helper for Base Camp
- 6 Yaks per Climbing member CBC to ABC
- 3 Yaks for Climbing member from ABC to DBC
- 50 Kgs personal equipment Per Climbing member
- Full Camping services for Base Camp with 1 VE 25 North Face Tent per Climbing member
- Climbing route Fixing rope fee for Climbing member and Sherpa
- Environment Mountain protection fee for member and Sherpa
- 1 solar pannel electricity supply for light and battery charge for Base Camp
- 1 Gas Heater for Dinning tent for Base Camp
- Farewell Dinner in Kathmandu
- Lunch & Dinner in Kathmandu Hotel stay / Personal equipments
- Insurance: Travel/Accident/Medical /emergency evacuation
- Nepal double entry Visa 30 days Double entry and pay US$ 40 to pay at KTM Airport
- Mountain Garbage deposit fee of US$ 5000 for a group Later refunded after submit of Garbage
- If the climbing Sherpa make the summit then US$ 800 as his summit Bonus
- If the Sherpa not make up to summit then only US$ 550 as his climbing Bonus
- For any Extra Yak requirement then US$ 350 Per Yak, to be paid at Base Camp
- Emergency rescue evacuation cost if needed
- All other personal nature expenses
- Ice Axe: Bring a light weight axe with a pick that will stick easily in hard glacier ice. Attach a light weight wrist leash that is usable for climbing steeper terrain.
- Crampons: These must be sharp and must fit your boot perfectly.
- Harness: Make sure the buckle is easy for you to thread in cold conditions! Gear loops will be useful for this trip as well as adjustable leg loops.
- Helmet: Be sure you can comfortably fit a warm hat underneath.
- Hardware: Bring 3 locking and 4 lightweight regular carabiners. It is helpful if at least one of the locking carabiners has a "key gate", like the Petzl Attaché. Bring one handled ascender and one Petzl Tibloc for ascending the fixed rope. You will need rigging material--two sewn 48" nylon slings and 10' of 8 mm perlon should be sufficient. Also include one small 5 mm prussik loop (about 4 feet of cord tied with a double fisherman's knot) for a rappel backup. For rappelling the Black Diamond ATC Guide is good since it can handle ropes from 7.7mm to 11mm. A Figure 8 is an old standby and works on a variety of ropes and also icy ropes. While it twists the ropes more, it is quite foolproof. You might consider both, in case you drop one of them and lose it. Our guide have Ice tool, Ice screws, Carabineers, Locking carabineers, Short-5- millimeter accessory cords, Slings.
- Headlamp: Bring a good LED headlamp with 2 sets of lithium batteries for cold conditions.
- Water Bottles: 2 wide mouth plastic water bottles with insulated covers. A small Thermos bottle is great for cold mornings. Bring a pee bottle too.
- Water purification: Iodine tablets (Potable Aqua or similar) or iodine crystals (Polar Pure). One bottle of Potable Aqua (enough to treat 25 liters) should be more than sufficient.
- Utensils: Bring an insulated mug with a lid, a decent sized bowl, spoon, pocket knife and lighter.
- Backpack: Climbing Backpack: Medium size internal frame pack (60 liter capacity). Look for a pack which is comfortable to carry, very durable, as light as is reasonable and one which has a minimum number of bells and whistles.
- Sleeping Bag: Bring a sleeping bag comfortable to -20. Down is lighter and much more compressible. Be sure to bring a compression stuff sack. Keep in mind that many of your nights will be much warmer than -20, especially on the trek in to base camp.
- Sleeping Mats: A stuff sack helps prevent punctures.
- Double Climbing Boots with expedition liners. Make sure your crampons can be adjusted to fit them!
- Approach boots. Which will work on the trek and approach to Camp 1, and even up to Camp 2 if conditions warrant.
- Gaiters and Yaktrax or Kahtoola Micro spikes in case of snow.
- Socks: Three/Four sets of climbing socks.
- Insulated Parka: Heavyweight insulated expedition parka with hood.
- Jacket: Lightweight waterproof-breathable construction with a hood.
- Pants: Lightweight waterproof-breathable shell pants or bibs with full-length leg zippers. ALSO very useful are synthetic insulation full-zip pants, for example, Mountain Hardware Compressor Pants--for evenings and cold summit days.
- Mid Layers: Fleece or Soft Shell layering pieces that work well with the rest of your clothing. A Soft Shell jacket and an expedition weight long john top will work well.
- Climbing Pants: Look for construction that provides freedom of movement and/or stretch materials. Fabric should be a breathable synthetic that preferably holds up to abrasion.
- Base Layers: - 2 synthetic tops and 1 bottom. Zip neck tops are the way to go.
- Mittens: Fleece mittens with an over mitten. Nothing competes with a mitten for warmth when the going got tough.
- Ski Gloves: A warm insulated glove with leather palm will be worn a lot of the time.
- Light Gloves: Polypropylene or fleece. Leather palms handle the fixed line better.
- Leather gloves or good abrasion resistant climbing glove for the rock sections.
- Stocking Hat: Wool or fleece stocking hat with ear protection.
- Neck Gaiter and/or a Buff (highly recommended).
- Baseball hat and Bandana.
- Eyewear: Bring good sunglasses with side protection. For contact lens wearers, ski goggles with light color lenses (for use at night) might be useful in windy conditions. The ski goggles are essential for all climbers in really stormy conditions and can serve as an emergency backup for broken or lost sunglasses.
- Vision correction: Bring extra prescription eyeglasses or contact lenses if you wear them. Lens solutions are not widely available in Nepal, bring enough for the duration.
- Wrist Watch: With alarm and night light. An altimeter watch is useful.
- First Aid: Hand sanitizer (Purell), moleskin or Compede, athletic tape, aspirin (some climbers take a baby aspirin every day up high) and/or ibuprofen / acetaminophen, Imodium, Band-Aids, antacid, insect repellant, ear plugs, and two rolls of toilet paper in quart Ziploc bags (we will have a supply at Base Camp), small towel, soap/shampoo.
- Prescription Medications: Antibiotic for upper respiratory problems, Antibiotic for GI problems, Diamox for acclimatization (125 mg tabs recommended; enough for a week or more), Tylenol 3 or similar for severe headaches, Asthma medication, if any history.
- Skin Care: Sun block lotion (at least #30 protection factor -- have at least one smaller tube (1 oz) that can fit in your pocket) and lip salve. Put your lip protection on a string and hang it from your neck. That way you'll use it. It also works great for your nose.
- Garbage Bags: 2 or 3 large plastic bags make great liners for your pack in wet weather.
- Personal Snack Food: The food is great on the trek but you might enjoy a few snacks (not more than 5 pounds) from home and also some drink mixes if you like these to add to your water bottle (let the iodine have 30 minutes contact time before adding). Summit climbers should bring some high altitude snacks they prefer for hard days.
- MP3 Player and Books: Plan on sharing books with the Base Camp Library.
- Pee Bottle
- Chemical Hand Warmers
- Trekking Poles: Poles come in handy for balance and easing impact to your knees. Get collapsible poles that can attach to your backpack and fit into your duffel.
- Backpack: You may choose to bring a smaller "daypack" for your airline travel carry on, and this can be used on the trek if you want to carry a smaller (35 liter or so), light trekking pack. You need a pack big enough for your clothes, water, camera, food, etc during the day.
- Pack Cover: Waterproof rain cover for your trekking pack.
- Trekking Clothes: Light hiking pants and / or hiking shorts for warm weather down low- NOT cotton. Shirts for hiking on nice days (t-shirts OK, quick-drying synthetic fabric is better.) Don't overdo your trekking clothes. A pair of shorts, long pants and a couple of shirts will do. Some pair of Socks, Underpants/panties/Bra, Belt, Skirt, one set Sport sandals and Trousers, You can hand wash them during the trek as needed.
- Lightweight Approach Boots: Find a pair that fits and log some miles in them before your trip. A low cut shoe is adequate, but some hikers will prefer more ankle support.
- Sleeping Bag: Climbers will make do with their expedition bag; trekkers only can get by with a lighter bag rated to -10.
- Sleeping Pad or Thermarest-one light one is sufficient, you will be provided a thick open cell foam "trekking mattress" (recommend only for camping trek).
- Duffel Bags: We normally pack all our equipment in two large duffel bags. Make sure they are well labeled with indelible ink as well as a travel tag. The duffels go on the trek/climb with you and will be carried by porters and yaks. Expect for them to get wet and muddy, so rugged, waterproof duffels are good. Bags with wheels are nice for the airport, but the porters and yaks don't like to carry them, so don't bring wheeled bags (or at least not two of them). You will also store some travel clothes at the hotel in Kathmandu while trekking, so a small additional bag with a lock might be handy. Bring 5 large plastic garbage bags to pack gear inside duffels to protect gear from rain.
- Daypack: A smaller rucksack makes a great carry-on bag for your flight and is useful during the trek.
- Travel Wallet: Some type of secure travel wallet is a must. Remember a pen for travel documents.
- Passport (valid for at least 6 months), It is easy to get your Nepal visa on arrival in Kathmandu at the airport bring a passport photo. Bring a copy of the information pages and a couple of extra passport photographs. Carry these in a separate location. You'll be glad you did if you ever lose a passport.
- Camera: with spare batteries, and film or memory cards, but keep it reasonable in size and weight. Consider a small USB drive to make it easy to share photos with your teammates.
- Bathing Suit: Towel, Toothpaste and brush, floss, mini hair brush, razor, soap, mini bottle of shampoo, travel mirror, nail clippers etc.