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Mt. Nuptse Expedition 7861m.

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Difficulty : Strenuous

Reference Code: MNENP

Trip Start: Kathmandu

Trek Start: Lukla

Trek Days: 51 Days

Peak Climbing Period: 38 Days

Maximum Altitude: 7861m.

Age: 25-60 years

Season: Spring and Autumn

Accommodation: Lodge and Camp

Service: Full board

Destination: Nepal

Trip End: Kathmandu

Trek End: Lukla

Trip Durations: 57 Days

Peak Grade: Extreme

Physical Rating: Strenuous

Group Size: 2-10

Theme: Expedition

Meals: Standard

Mt. Nuptse expedition 7861m  is challenging expedition in Nepal Himalayas. Nuptse climbing offer beautiful Himalayan views of Mt. Everest 8848m, Mt. Lhotse 8516m, Mt. Makalu 8463m, Mt. Cho Oyu 8201m & other more then two dozens mountains of Everest region trekking trails. Mt. Nuptse (7861m) beautiful mountain peak in Nepal situated in the Khumbu Himal just south-west of Mount Everest. Mt. Nuptse was first ascended by British national-Dennis Davis and Nepali national- Sherpa Tashi on the north-ridge (Scott-route) on May 16, 1961. Mount Nuptse expedition emerge as a massive wall guarding Mount Everest when it is viewed from the Thangboche Monastery. The name 'Nup-tse' is originated from the Tibetan language meaning ''west-peak''. The main ridge, Lhotse-Nuptse massive is joint to Lhotse by a 7556m high saddle made up of 7 peaks and goes west-northwest. Nuptse's south-face is 2500m high and 5 kilometers wide. The west-face of the peak is dropped down more than 2300m to the Khumbu-glacier. The main summit received only two visits till September 1996. Slovenian climbing legend Janez Jeglic and fellow countrymen Tomaz Humar ascended Nuptse's 8000 foot West Face in October 1997. The dramatic south face with 7000 feet of vertical relief boasts the South Pillar. Since Mount Nuptse expedition has been open numerous mountaineers successfully summit this peak. Mt. Nuptse expedition commence from Lukla after 25 minutes mountain flight from Kathmandu.

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Day 01 Arrival in Kathmandu 1350m.

Namaste! And welcome to Kathmandu, the colourful capital of Nepal where ornately carved balconies mingle with beautiful shrines and temples. Your adventure begins with a welcome meeting on arrival at the exit gate of Kathmandu airport. Our staff will welcome you and pick you to your accommodated hotel. Please seek our company palmplate to find our staff at the main exit gate of the airport. Rest of the day you can relax at the hotel or short evening walk around local market on your own as per your wish.

Approximate Driving Hours: 30 minutes
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals include: None

Day 02 Rest and preparation day

A well deserved rest day at cosy of hotel after a long tiring flight. This day, one can move around nearby local market to purchase or hire trekking equipment that is necessary for the trekking like sleeping bags, walking sticks etc, exchange currency as requirement or simply walk around in the local market or Kathmandu Durbar squire nearby with small entrance fee as per your preference on your own. Evening at the hotel lobby there will be pre-trip briefing in which you will be introduced with your trekking guide and explained about your trip in short, instruction for safety etc.

Accommodation: Hotel
Meals include: Breakfast

Day 03 Official works and Pre trip briefing by officers of Ministry of Tourism

Day is at leisure to make necessary preparation for your big adventure and process for the Government formalities. Check the equipment, last minute shopping. Team will need to go to Ministry of Tourism for the Briefing before expedition.

Accommodation: Hotel
Meals include: Breakfast

Day 04 Fly to Lukla 2840m. and trek to Phakding 2610m.

Today we have a very early (approx. 6.30 am) flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (45 minutes). If the weather is good, the views of the Himalayas from the small plane are amazing! In Lukla (2840 m), there will be an introduction to the porters, we gear up and commence our trek. Today is a fairly gentle introduction, following the milk-white Dudh Kosi River approximately three-hours to Phakding (2610 m).

Driving Hours:40 minutes Flight hours: 25 minutes Walking hours: 3 hours
Altitude gain/loss:
Accommodation: Camp
Meals include: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 05 Trek to Namchebazaar 3440m.

Today you’ll trek around 7 hours to Namche Bazaar, where you’ll spend a couple of days acclimatising to the altitude. You might also get your first look at Everest itself. From Phakding you’ll cross the river and head up the valley, following in the footsteps of the porters loaded with supplies for Namche Bazaar. The trail, lined with blue pine forest, follows the river valley and is especially spectacular in spring when the rhododendron flowers are bright in bloom. Cross the Dudh Kosi River at Benkar, and look way up above 6,000 metres to see the peaks of snow-capped Kusum Kanguru (6369m) and Thamserku (6623m). Press on to Monjo (2835m), a good place to break for lunch. From here the walk starts to get a little tougher, with a steep ascent to Namche Bazaar. Enter into the national park, cross the river through the village of Jorsale (2805m) and then continue upstream. Cross another spectacular suspension bridge and begin the ascent to Namche Bazaar. Get your camera out as now there will be your first glimpse of the peaks of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Taweche. Namche will be your last chance to check your equipment and hire any additional gear for the high altitudes from Dingboche onwards. Namche Bazaar is also the last chance to enjoy the local nightlife or take to the pool hall and video parlours.

Walking Hours: 5 hrs 
Altitude gain/loss:
Accommodation: Camp
Meals include: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 06 Rest Day

You’ll stay at Namche Bazaar for another night so that you can properly acclimatise to the altitude. One of the best ways to do this is to take strenuous walk up to a high altitude then come back down to sleep – so there’s an optional walk above the Bhote Khola River Valley towards Thami (3810m). Taking a walk to see both the sunrise and sunset views from the national park headquarters above the village is also a great option. This stunning vista includes a super panorama of the Khumbu peaks and great views of Everest. The national park headquarters are home to interesting displays about Sherpa lifestyle and culture, and the local flora and fauna. Namche gained its importance during the period when Tibetan salt was traded for the lowland grains of Nepal. Rugs, clothing, salt and dried meat still all do a roaring trade in the village centre, so haggle for any extra supplies you might need.

Accommodation: Camp
Meals include: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 07 Trek to Tengboche 3860m.

After our rest day we set off trekking again. Within an hour the towering summit of Ama Dablam appears to the east, while glimpses of Everest lure us onwards. The gentle trail crosses the Dudh Kosi river at Phuki Teng where we start the long climb up to Tengboche.

Walking Hours: 5 hrs 
Altitude gain/loss:
Accommodation: Camp
Meals include: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 08 Trek to Pheriche 4240m.

We descend to the Dudh Kosi river through rhododendron forests. If you are trekking in the spring you may see the rhododendron forests in bloom. We continue to Pangboche village where the monastery once held a possible yeti scalp, apparently stolen a few years back. We overnight at Pheriche (4,252m).

Walking Hours: 5 hrs 
Altitude gain/loss:
Accommodation: Camp
Meals include: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 09 Rest day

We have an acclimatization day at Pheriche, and a local walk to gain height during the day is recommended, returning to spend a second night at the same altitude. This is a very important aspect of our trek and will undoubtedly assist with the success, as well as with our enjoyment of it.

Accommodation: Camp
Meals include: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 10 Trek to Lobuche 4910m.

Leaving Pheriche, we head over dry grazing lands, climbing gradually to Dughla. The surrounding stony wastes are the terminal moraines of the mighty Khumbu glacier, which we climb over to reach Lobuche (4,930m.) a cluster of shepherds’ huts and tea houses.

Walking Hours: 5 hrs 
Altitude gain/loss:
Accommodation: Camp
Meals include: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 11 Trek to Everest Base Camp 5364m.

Hemmed in by high peaks, the early morning sun is slow to reach Lobuche. It first hits 7,161m Pumori, which we head for as we leave the village and skirt the tongue of the Khumbu glacier. The trail gets rougher as we traverse the glacial debris where an adjoining glacier flows down from Changri La. At reaching Gorakshep, we leave our extra luggage in the lodge. After lunch we will walk up to Old Everest Base camp and return to Gorakshep for overnight.

Walking Hours: 5 hrs 
Altitude gain/loss:
Accommodation: Camp
Meals include: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 12-13 Preparation of Puja in base camp

Ceremonies mark life. Many come with a birth of a child, a union of a couple or upon death. For the Sherpa, they will not climb mountains without one such ceremony, a Puja. Every sherpa people have a strong belief that each and every mountains abodes realm of gods and goddesses.

The Puja is an important ceremony where we pay respect to the mountain and offer blessings for safe passage before heading up onto Mountain.

Our Puja consisted of a Lama (Monk) and our entire crew participating in prayers, rice and flour throwing, and 3 sips of strong whiskey (just to name a few things from our 3-hour ceremony!). The stupa will be covered in beautiful decorations and sculptures made out of butter and tsampa, with plates full of food and drinks as offerings. It was incredible to witness and to be a part of.

Accommodation: Camp 
Meals: Breakfast Lunch and Dinner

Day 14-49 Mt. Nuptse 7861m. Climbing Period

We do forth and back to our various camps on the mountain to fit our body with high altitude and weather we face during the actual climbing. On the day of the summit, we walk early mid night from our final high camp so that we can reach the summit as early morning as possible so that we do get good weather to return too. As the day gets older, the weather in mountain starts to get voilent and we no one wants to be in mercy of the mountain. The time and the oxygen in our oxygen cylinder is very crucial on the day as summit is just the half way of our success. If any things gets serious(time, body fitness, Oxygen level...), there will always be next time if we live and it will be very wise decision to return back for the next day. After summit we will return back to our base camp.

Accommodation: Camp 
Meals: Breakfast Lunch and Dinner; high altitude food during climb

Day 50 Cleaning Base Camp and Pack up

Its cruicial to clean up our base camp so that mountain remain clean. We clean our litter and pack up our equipment for move next day.

Accommodation: Camp 
Meals: Breakfast Lunch and Dinner

Day 51 Decent trek to Pangboche 3940m.

We descend the Imja Khola Valley to the village of Pangboche, (3,901m), with its 300 year old monastery containing wall paintings and Tibetan manuscripts.

Walking Hours: 7 hrs 
Altitude gain/loss:
Accommodation: Camp
Meals include: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 52 Trek to Namchebazaar 3440m.

Through Deboche (3,757m) we continue to Thyangboche Monastery in a magical setting that commands impressive views of shapely Ama Dablam, then on through woodland to reach Namche Bazaar. An optional evening walk will give us our last views of Everest. 

Walking Hours: 6 hrs 
Altitude gain/loss:
Accommodation: Camp
Meals include: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 53 Trek to Lukla 2840m.

We may awake to the sound of Tibetan horns high above the village. From here the deep valley of the Dudh Khosi drops away as we retrace our steps to Lukla

Walking Hours: 4 hrs 
Altitude gain/loss:
Accommodation: Camp
Meals include: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 54 Fly to Kathmandu 1350m.

Weather-permitting, we fly from the tiny mountain airstrip back to Kathmandu, with a last chance to glimpse the mighty snowcapped Himalaya in the distance.

Flight Hours: 25 minutes Driving hours: 40 minutes
Altitude gain/loss:
Accommodation: Hotel
Meals include: Breakfast

Day 56 Post Expedition briefing at Ministry of Tourism

Today we have a de-briefing at the Ministry of Tourism. Remaining day is at leisure.

Evening we gather with all members and celebrate your safe return and share some adventure stories.

Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast

Day 57 Final departure

We say 'Namaste' for memories that will last a lifetime. There are no activities planned for today and you are able to depart the hotel at any time. Check out time from the hotel is at 12 noon. If you are departing later, you can arrange luggage storage at the hotel. For your final departure, our staff will pick you up from the hotel and transfer to Kathmandu airport approximately 3 hours prior to your international flight time.

Driving hours: 40 minutes
Meals include: Breakfast

Inclusion

  • Arrival & Departure Airport transfers
  • 6 nights in Kathmandu Hotel Gokarna Forest Resort   on BB 
  • Flight: Ktm-Lukla-Ktm with airport tax & Cargo
  • Climbing Permit, National Park Khumbu, Pasang Lhamu Permit
  • Icefall route and and summit route fees
  • 1 Government Liaison officer and Garbage Deposit Fees
  • 1 Trekking & Base camp Manager
  • 1 Cook and Kitchen helper at the Base camp
  • 85 kgs per member for personal Equipments
  • All required porters to carry members equipment and Food & Group Equipment
  • All Nepali staffs' Insurance/ wages and equipment allowance
  • Lodge accommodation as per itinerary
  • All camping equiments for Base Camp & High Camp for member & Sherpa
  • 1 Solar Pannel for light & battery charge at Base Camp
  • 1 Gas heater for Dinning tent at Base camp  
  • 1 VE 25 North Face Tent per member at Base camp
  • Base Camp Food for member & for all our Nepali staffs
  • High Altitude Climbing Sherpa- Everest Summiter
  • High Altitude Food for member & High altitude Sherpa
  • 18 EPI gas  250mg / High Altitude Cooking Pot &  cooking Stove ,
  • 6 bottle oxygen with Mask & regulator for Member
  • 4 bottle oxyent with Mask & regulator High Altitude Sherpa 
  • 1 Satelite phone and Radio Walkie talkies set for Group Use
  • All necessary Climbing route equipments
  • First Aid Kit & 1 Gamow bag for group Use
  • Farewell Dinner in Kathmandu

Exclusion

  • International Flight to Kathmandu Nepal
  • Nepalese Visa fee
  • Lunch & Dinner in Kathmandu
  • Personal Travel,  Medical and rescue Insurance
  • All personal climbing equipments for ascent
  • High Altitude Sherpa Summit bonus US$ 2500 Per Sherpa, if Summit
  • High altitude Climbing Bonus US$ 1500 Per sherpa if not Summit
  • Extra nights in Kathmandu hotel
  • Tips for supporting staffs
  • Extra Yaks or porter & Extra Oxygen bottle (on request only)
  • Emergency rescue evacuation cost if needed
  • and  All other personal nature expenses

Check List

Climbing Gear

  • Ice Axe: Bring a light weight axe with a pick that will stick easily in hard glacier ice. Attach a light weight wrist leash that is usable for climbing steeper terrain.
  •  Crampons: These must be sharp and must fit your boot perfectly.
  • Harness: Make sure the buckle is easy for you to thread in cold conditions! Gear loops will be useful for this trip as well as adjustable leg loops.
  • Helmet: Be sure you can comfortably fit a warm hat underneath.
  • Hardware: Bring 3 locking and 4 lightweight regular carabiners. It is helpful if at least one of the locking carabiners has a "key gate", like the Petzl Attaché. Bring one handled ascender and one Petzl Tibloc for ascending the fixed rope. You will need rigging material--two sewn 48" nylon slings and 10' of 8 mm perlon should be sufficient. Also include one small 5 mm prussik loop (about 4 feet of cord tied with a double fisherman's knot) for a rappel backup. For rappelling the Black Diamond ATC Guide is good since it can handle ropes from 7.7mm to 11mm. A Figure 8 is an old standby and works on a variety of ropes and also icy ropes. While it twists the ropes more, it is quite foolproof. You might consider both, in case you drop one of them and lose it. Our guide have Ice tool, Ice screws, Carabineers, Locking carabineers, Short-5- millimeter accessory cords, Slings.

Others Accessories

  • Headlamp: Bring a good LED headlamp with 2 sets of lithium batteries for cold conditions.
  • Water Bottles: 2 wide mouth plastic water bottles with insulated covers. A small Thermos bottle is great for cold mornings. Bring a pee bottle too.
  • Water purification: Iodine tablets (Potable Aqua or similar) or iodine crystals (Polar Pure). One bottle of Potable Aqua (enough to treat 25 liters) should be more than sufficient.
  • Utensils: Bring an insulated mug with a lid, a decent sized bowl, spoon, pocket knife and lighter.
  • Backpack: Climbing Backpack: Medium size internal frame pack (60 liter capacity). Look for a pack which is comfortable to carry, very durable, as light as is reasonable and one which has a minimum number of bells and whistles.
  • Sleeping Bag: Bring a sleeping bag comfortable to -20. Down is lighter and much more compressible. Be sure to bring a compression stuff sack. Keep in mind that many of your nights will be much warmer than -20, especially on the trek in to base camp.
  • Sleeping Mats: A stuff sack helps prevent punctures.

Footwear

  • Double Climbing Boots with expedition liners. Make sure your crampons can be adjusted to fit them!
  • Approach boots. Which will work on the trek and approach to Camp 1, and even up to Camp 2 if conditions warrant.
  • Gaiters and Yaktrax or Kahtoola Micro spikes in case of snow.
  • Socks: Three/Four sets of climbing socks.

Climbing Clothing

  • Insulated Parka: Heavyweight insulated expedition parka with hood.
  • Jacket: Lightweight waterproof-breathable construction with a hood.
  • Pants: Lightweight waterproof-breathable shell pants or bibs with full-length leg zippers. ALSO very useful are synthetic insulation full-zip pants, for example, Mountain Hardware Compressor Pants--for evenings and cold summit days.
  • Mid Layers: Fleece or Soft Shell layering pieces that work well with the rest of your clothing. A Soft Shell jacket and an expedition weight long john top will work well.
  • Climbing Pants: Look for construction that provides freedom of movement and/or stretch materials. Fabric should be a breathable synthetic that preferably holds up to abrasion.
  • Base Layers: - 2 synthetic tops and 1 bottom. Zip neck tops are the way to go.
  • Mittens: Fleece mittens with an over mitten. Nothing competes with a mitten for warmth when the going got tough.
  • Ski Gloves: A warm insulated glove with leather palm will be worn a lot of the time.
  • Light Gloves: Polypropylene or fleece. Leather palms handle the fixed line better.
  • Leather gloves or good abrasion resistant climbing glove for the rock sections.
  • Stocking Hat: Wool or fleece stocking hat with ear protection.
  • Neck Gaiter and/or a Buff (highly recommended).
  • Basebalhat and Bandana.

Personal Accessories

  • Eyewear: Bring good sunglasses with side protection. For contact lens wearers, ski goggles with light color lenses (for use at night) might be useful in windy conditions. The ski goggles are essential for all climbers in really stormy conditions and can serve as an emergency backup for broken or lost sunglasses.
  • Vision correction: Bring extra prescription eyeglasses or contact lenses if you wear them. Lens solutions are not widely available in Nepal, bring enough for the duration.
  • Wrist Watch: With alarm and night light. An altimeter watch is useful.
  • First Aid: Hand sanitizer (Purell), moleskin or Compede, athletic tape, aspirin (some climbers take a baby aspirin every day up high) and/or ibuprofen / acetaminophen, Imodium, Band-Aids, antacid, insect repellant, ear plugs, and two rolls of toilet paper in quart Ziploc bags (we will have a supply at Base Camp), small towel, soap/shampoo.
  • Prescription Medications: Antibiotic for upper respiratory problems, Antibiotic for GI problems, Diamox for acclimatization (125 mg tabs recommended; enough for a week or more), Tylenol 3 or similar for severe headaches, Asthma medication, if any history.
  • Skin Care: Sun block lotion (at least #30 protection factor -- have at least one smaller tube (1 oz) that can fit in your pocket) and lip salve. Put your lip protection on a string and hang it from your neck. That way you'll use it. It also works great for your nose.
  • Garbage Bags: 2 or 3 large plastic bags make great liners for your pack in wet weather.
  • Personal Snack Food: The food is great on the trek but you might enjoy a few snacks (not more than 5 pounds) from home and also some drink mixes if you like these to add to your water bottle (let the iodine have 30 minutes contact time before adding). Summit climbers should bring some high altitude snacks they prefer for hard days.
  • MP3 Player and Books: Plan on sharing books with the Base Camp Library.
  • Pee Bottle
  • Chemical Hand Warmers 

Trekking Gear

  • Trekking Poles: Poles come in handy for balance and easing impact to your knees. Get collapsible poles that can attach to your backpack and fit into your duffel.
  • Backpack: You may choose to bring a smaller "daypack" for your airline travel carry on, and this can be used on the trek if you want to carry a smaller (35 liter or so), light trekking pack. You need a pack big enough for your clothes, water, camera, food, etc during the day.
  • Pack Cover: Waterproof rain cover for your trekking pack.
  • Trekking Clothes: Light hiking pants and / or hiking shorts for warm weather down low- NOT cotton. Shirts for hiking on nice days (t-shirts OK, quick-drying synthetic fabric is better.) Don't overdo your trekking clothes. A pair of shorts, long pants and a couple of shirts will do. Some pair of Socks, Underpants/panties/Bra, Belt, Skirt, one set Sport sandals and Trousers, You can hand wash them during the trek as needed.
  • Lightweight Approach Boots: Find a pair that fits and log some miles in them before your trip. A low cut shoe is adequate, but some hikers will prefer more ankle support.
  • Sleeping Bag: Climbers will make do with their expedition bag; trekkers only can get by with a lighter bag rated to -10.
  • Sleeping Pad or Thermarest-one light one is sufficient, you will be provided a thick open cell foam "trekking mattress" (recommend only for camping trek).

Travel Items

  • Duffel Bags: We normally pack all our equipment in two large duffel bags. Make sure they are well labeled with indelible ink as well as a travel tag. The duffels go on the trek/climb with you and will be carried by porters and yaks. Expect for them to get wet and muddy, so rugged, waterproof duffels are good. Bags with wheels are nice for the airport, but the porters and yaks don't like to carry them, so don't bring wheeled bags (or at least not two of them). You will also store some travel clothes at the hotel in Kathmandu while trekking, so a small additional bag with a lock might be handy. Bring 5 large plastic garbage bags to pack gear inside duffels to protect gear from rain.
  • Daypack: A smaller rucksack makes a great carry-on bag for your flight and is useful during the trek.
  • Travel Wallet: Some type of secure travel wallet is a must. Remember a pen for travel documents.
  • Passport (valid for at least 6 months), It is easy to get your Nepal visa on arrival in Kathmandu at the airport bring a passport photo. Bring a copy of the information pages and a couple of extra passport photographs. Carry these in a separate location. You'll be glad you did if you ever lose a passport.
  • Camera: with spare batteries, and film or memory cards, but keep it reasonable in size and weight. Consider a small USB drive to make it easy to share photos with your teammates.
  • Bathing Suit: Towel, Toothpaste and brush, floss, mini hair brush, razor, soap, mini bottle of shampoo, travel mirror, nail clippers etc.

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