Mt. Mera 6470m.

Nepal
Challenging
Available Departures: Spring and Autumn
20 days
Trip Code: MMPNP

Mt. Mera 6470m.

At a glance
  • Trip Start: Kathmandu
  • Trip End: Kathmandu
  • Trek Start: Lukla
  • Trek End: Lukla
  • Peak Climbing Period: 2 days
  • Maximum Altitude: 6470m.
  • Group Size: 2-12
  • Service: Full Board

Mt. Mera Peak 6470m is the highest trekking peak in Nepal.  At this altitude, the oxygen content of air is less than half of what it is at sea level – for this reason we would not recommend you take on Mera as your first high-altitude trek. You need to understand how your body acclimatises to altitude before taking on a climb like Mera Peak.

If you have already done a high altitude trek and coped well, then Mera is the perfect next adventure. The extreme altitude does mean that no matter how fit you are, climbing Mera Peak will be a tough challenge. The challenge is very much about stamina and endurance though, as no technical skills are need to complete the climb.

We think it is definitely worth the effort! The expedition starts with a  beautiful approach up the Arun Valley which takes you away from all the crowds on the Everest trek. On this part of the trek you will see local villages farming the terraces as they have done for generations. Our founder Mr. Bhai successfully summited this 3 times in past with French team, Australian team and British Army team.

This peak climbing is further more suitable to the Expedition members willing to climb +8000m. peak for high altitude Aclimatization before climb the real expedition peak.

Itinerary

Namaste! And welcome to Kathmandu, the colourful capital of Nepal where ornately carved balconies mingle with beautiful shrines and temples. Your adventure begins with a welcome meeting on arrival at the exit gate of Kathmandu airport. Our staff will welcome you and pick you to your accommodated hotel. Please seek our company palmplate to find our staff at the main exit gate of the airport. Rest of the day you can relax at the hotel or short evening walk around local market on your own as per your wish.

Accomodation

Hotel

Meals

None

Drive

30 minutes

A well deserved rest day at cosy of hotel after a long tiring flight. This day, one can move around nearby local market to purchase or hire trekking equipment that is necessary for the trekking like sleeping bags, walking sticks etc, exchange currency as requirement or simply walk around in the local market or Kathmandu Durbar squire nearby with small entrance fee as per your preference on your own. In this day our staff will issue NMA Peak climbing permit. Evening at the hotel lobby there will be pre-trip briefing in which you will be introduced with your trekking guide and explained about your trip in short, instruction for safety etc.

Accomodation

Hotel

Meals

Breakfast

Today the spectacular flight to Lukla is on the program. It is always an exciting moment because the weather conditions, mainly visibility and wind, determine whether our flight departs on time. After landing in Lukla, which is at over 2800 meters, we descend to the nearby but approximately 700 meters lower Surke to cross the river. A steep climb to Chutok La follows. The rest of the trek to Paiya is undulating and therefore a good end to our first day of walking.

Due to work at the international airport of Kathmandu, there are currently no flights from Kathmandu to Lukla. Flights therefore leave from Ramechap Domestic Airport, approximately 4.5 hours drive from Kathmandu.

Accomodation

Lodge

Meals

BLD

Fly

30 minutes

Time

1 hours

Today we cross the Piya Khola river via a sturdy wooden bridge. On the other side a steep climb awaits us to reach Kari La. Today we also end with a relaxed fairly flat route, now to the village of Panggom.

Accomodation

Lodge

Meals

BLD

Time

6 hrs

Now that we have already warmed up nicely, we walk over rougher terrain today. Our path winds and meanders along the foot of the Zatrwa massif. Many short but steep ascents and descents put our bodies to work. Fortunately, we can recover well afterwards in our lodge in Ramailo Danda.

Accomodation

Lodge

Meals

BLD

Time

5.5 hrs

We now really leave the beaten track and encounter fewer and fewer houses along the way. That is why we take our own packed lunch. The day starts with a steep climb to Ramailo Dada, followed by a zigzag path down to the Tama Khola river. We continue through a mixed forest of bamboo and rhododendron, a special experience at this altitude when you consider that the tree line in the Alps is between 1800 and 2200 meters

Accomodation

Lodge

Meals

BLD

Time

6 hrs

Today we continue through the jungle, over steeper up and down terrain. We pass the village of Tashing Ongma and then head downhill to Mosom Kharka and the Inkhu Khola River. We follow the wild river to the village of Kothe and the lodge where we will spend the night.

Accomodation

Lodge

Meals

BLD

Time

5.5 hrs

Via the bed of the Hinku Drangka we go around and through the rubble further north into the valley. The moraine dam of the Sabal-Thso lake broke a few years ago and the resulting flood wave has caused enormous devastation in the Hinku valley. Just before Tangnag there is a small Gompa where we and our Nepali crew can make a final offering to bless the climb.
During the quiet climb up we will have a view of the Kyashar (6770 meters). The valley becomes narrower and is wedged between the Kusum Kang Guru and Mera West. The lodges at Tangnag (Tibetan for `black square`) are a great place to stay for two days. We have time in the afternoon to do the laundry and let all the wet stuff dry.

Accomodation

Lodge

Meals

BLD

Time

5 hrs

We are now at 4350 meters and you can feel it: everything you do leads to panting and everything feels heavy. We are now taking the time for the first time to let the body get used to this altitude. It is an essential step to have better chances of reaching the top of Mera Peak later.
We make an acclimatization trip and try to get as high as possible to the plateau of 5000m, so that we can get used to exerting ourselves better at low air pressure. The view of Mera from this height is also not to be missed!
We return to Tangnag for lunch. If you feel like it and have the energy, you can walk along the northern slopes in the afternoon to see the remains of Sabai Tsho.

Accomodation

Lodge

Meals

BLD

It is now becoming increasingly rough around us. Along the lateral moraines of the Dig glacier we walk quietly, first slightly ascending and later steeper to Khare where we set up base camp at ±5000 meters. On the way we have a view of the Hinku Nup glacier.
The weather conditions, snow conditions and the physical condition of the individual participants play a very large role from now on. Here we will also make a final decision about the logistical and technical approach of the next three days. One thing is certain, the nights will be cold and due to the altitude and the tension before the climb we probably won't sleep very well.

Accomodation

Lodge

Meals

BLD

Time

4.5 hrs

Khare is the starting point for the ascent of Mera Peak. This is the last place with lodges, mainly for the porters, and tent sites on terraces next to the huts. In the morning we continue with extensive exercises with the equipment, with going on a rope and prusiking up and down on a fixed rope.
Those who feel well and are in the mood can make an excursion to the Mera La glacier higher up in the afternoon. "Climb high and sleep low" is an important advice for your acclimatization.

Accomodation

Lodge

Meals

BLD

This is the first part of the real climb to the top, where we need our crampons again. The first part is a bit steep and if necessary we will attach a fixed rope here. However, the largest part of the journey over the glacier is slightly undulating.
High Camp is located between the rocks that form the separation between the Mera glacier and the Naulekh glacier. There is not too much space so it will be a bit of a squeeze.
The panorama is a festival of seven and eight thousanders such as: Kanchenjunga, Chamlang, Makalu, Baruntse, Lothse, Cho Oyu and of course Everest. This place is not considered one of the most beautiful viewpoints in Nepal for nothing. Tent overnight.

Accomodation

Camp

Meals

BLD

Time

3.5 hrs

Today is the day that has dominated our thoughts for a while. The day of truth. Who will reach the top? In the dark of the night we get up and prepare for the climb.
It will be a long journey, we will travel diagonally westwards across this icy landscape of about 30 degrees. A little wind can already cause very low temperatures, so we have to be alert for frostbite.
Our climbing Sherpa will attach a fixed rope for the last meters to the top: a steep climb. We will use our ice axes and jumars to cover the last 30 meters (about 55 degrees). Despite the low technical difficulty, every meter at this height requires a lot of effort.
However, all discomforts are quickly forgotten when we reach the top. The view is everything you could wish for, including the mighty Everest in the distance.
When we can report our success at base camp after the long descent, we are overjoyed.

Accomodation

Lodge

Meals

BLD

Time

11 hrs

We will go from Khare directly back to Khote and it will not be too difficult for us to do this part in one day. We are well acclimatized and it is almost constantly going downhill.
We can tell our stories to the groups that are still going up and they will listen eagerly to our findings and advice.

Accomodation

Lodge

Meals

BLD

Time

5 hrs

Today it goes uphill again. We take a new route to Chetera La. This new path is a faster way to the village and also offers a fantastic view of the Mera.

Accomodation

Lodge

Meals

BLD

Time

7 hrs

Our last day of trekking, which can certainly be tough. We climb a series of ridges before reaching the Zatrwa La Pass. The terrain here is quite rugged and we can clearly see both the Hinku Valley and the southern side of Mera.
We descend Zatr Og, a rocky outcrop, and head downhill back to the Dudh Koshi Valley. Here we enter forested terrain again. Together with the farmland on the edge of Lukla, this forms a stark contrast to the surroundings of the last few days.

Accomodation

Lodge

Meals

BLD

Time

5 hrs

This is the reserve day that we can use if we encounter bad weather during the summit attempt or if we are delayed somewhere during the trip, for example due to flight problems.

Accomodation

Lodge

Meals

BLD

Today we go back to Kathmandu. Waiting for these planes is always a nerve-wracking activity, because it is never certain whether the weather will remain good or whether there are more people waiting before us. Finally, the time has come. We are in the plane and bounce down the steep runway. Spectacular!

Due to work at the international airport of Kathmandu, there are currently no flights between Kathmandu and Lukla. Flights therefore go to/from Ramechap Domestic Airport, approximately 4.5 hours drive from Kathmandu.

Accomodation

Hotel

Meals

Breakfast

Fly

30 min

Drive

30 min

Showering, buying souvenirs, enjoying a beer on one of the many terraces in the city, calling home to tell a story, emailing in one of the cyber cafes, telling tough stories to those who have just arrived, going to that temple we hadn't seen yet or lazing around on the roof of the hotel. Everything is possible. Kathmandu is buzzing and so are we after this fantastic trip.

Accomodation

Hotel

Meals

Breakfast

We say 'Namaste' for memories that will last a lifetime. There are no activities planned for today and you are able to depart the hotel at any time. Check out time from the hotel is at 12 noon. If you are departing later, you can arrange luggage storage at the hotel. For your final departure, our staff will pick you up from the hotel and transfer to Kathmandu airport approximately 3 hours prior to your international flight time.

Meals

Breakfast

Drive

30 minutes

Includes/Excludes

Includes

Lodge + Camp Basis

  • All ground transportation as per itinerary
  • 4 night hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with B/B plan.
  • Both way domestic Air fare (KTM-LUK-KTM) with airport tax
  • Cargo charges
  • Everest National Park Entry fee
  • Makalu Barun National Park Entry fee
  • Peak climbing permit
  • Food for the members on camping basis/ Lodge basis
  • All camping equipment and camping charges during climbing period
  • All required group climbing equipments( like fixed  ropes, man rope, ice bar, ice screw.....)
  • All required Nepalese staffs including climbing support sherpa
  • Climbing support Sherpa equipments
  • All Nepalese staffs insurance
  • Company service charge and government taxes etc.

Excludes

  • International flight with airport tax.
  • Nepalese Entry Visa fee
  • Food during stay in Kathmandu
  • All personal equipment and personal expenses
  • All personal climbing gears
  • Photography Charges, Monument charges and Monument entry fees
  • Personal Medical and travel insurance(must cover helicopter rescue evacuation cost)
  • Personal Medicine
  • Telephone and internet charges
  • Laundry charges
  • Alcoholic beverage, bottled drinks and cold drinks during the trip
  • Rescue evacuation charges if required
  • Staff and porters Tips

Equipments

This trekking equipment list has been prepared by Adventure Zambuling Treks (P) Ltd.

Climbing equipment:
» Climbing harness;
» One 3 metre/10 foot sling and three 2 metre/6 foot slings.
» Figure 8/Abseil belay device;
» 1 large mitten sized ascender (most members use the large petzl) and arm length leash;
» 2 locking carabiners, (1 large and 1 small)
» 4 regular carabiners;
» Good quality Ice axe with leash;
» Crampons - must fit boots perfectly. Steel crampons with anti-balling (anti-bot) plates are the best;
» Optional; Adjustable trekking poles;

Upper Body:
» 2 cotton t-shirts;
» 1 polypropylene t-shirt;
» 1 long sleeve polypropylene shirts, lightweight;
» 1 polar fleece pullovers, medium weight;
» 1 polar fleece jacket.
» Gore-Tex jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable;
» Lightweight down jacket for those chilly days in camp;

Hands:
» 1 pr. lightweight poly-liner gloves. These will be worn when tying knots, but not inside your mitts;
» 1 pair mittens, consists of 1 Gore-tex over mitt matched with the very warm polar fleece mitt liner (For more about high altitude mitts.

Head:
» Warm hat wool or synthetic that covers your ears;
» Balaclava;
» Face mask;
» Ballcap or brimmed suncap;
» Glacier sunglasses with side shields (you can purchase these inexpensively in Kathmandu,
» 1 pair ski goggles (Optional) with light and dark lens;
» Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs;
» Bandana or head scarf, also useful for dusty conditions.

Lower Body:
» Cotton underwear briefs;
» 1 pair walking shorts;
» 1 pair walking trousers for trekking and around camp;
» 1 pair lightweight thermal bottoms;
» 1 pair medium or expedition weight thermal bottoms;
» 1 pair polar fleece trousers;
» 1 pair Gore-Tex trousers, salopettes, or bibs. Waterproof/breathable with full side zips;
Your clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags.

Feet:
» 1 pair Double Plastic boots (Koflach);
Modern single waterproof-leather climbing boots with special insulation for cold weather/winter climbing on 4000 metre/13,000 foot high peaks are OK, as long as they will fit comfortably with two thick pair of socks and a vapour barrier liner and the boot will fit the crampon perfectly.
» 1 pair sturdy leather walking boots with good ankle support (we mean leather trekking, not climbing boots) for the trek;
» 1 pair trainers, running shoes and/or sandals for Kathmandu and in camp;
» 1 pair down booties (optional);
» 2 pair med-heavy poly or wool socks;
» 2- pair of liner socks. Polypropylene or wool;
» Vapour barrier liner socks or plastic bread-bags;
» 2 pair lightweight trekking socks, poly or wool;
» Cotton socks for in town.

Sleeping:
» 1 good quality sleeping bag (good to -30 degrees C)
» At least 1 closed cell foam kari-mats. We do not recommend inflatable mats, as we have never seen one not puncture. You can buy these non inflatable mats very inexpensively in Kathmandu. Why carry foam mats around the world, when you can purchase them inexpensively in Kathmandu?
Your sleeping bags should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags.

Rucksack and Travel Bags:
» 1 medium rucksack (50-70 litres / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used for airplane carry);
» 1 or 2 large (120 L / 7500 cubic inch) duffle kit bags for clothing and equipment. Must be durable for use on pack animals or porters;
» Small padlocks for duffel kit bags.

Personal Hygiene:
» female or male hygiene supplies;
» 2 tubes lip sun cream, 1 large tube skin sun cream (min.factor 15);
» anti-mosquito cream;
» 1 toothpaste/brush;
» 1 bar soap or hand sanitizer gel/1 small towel;
» hand wipes.

Medical:
Medications are inexpensive and readily available in Kathmandu with no Doctor`s prescription:
» small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, first-aid tape, plasters (band-aids), personal medications, etc. The leaders will have extensive first-aid kits, so leave anything extra behind. Please let your leader know about any medical issues before the climb;
» 1 skin blister repair kit;
» 1 small bottle anti-diarrhea pills;
» 1 small bottle anti-headache pills;
» 1 small bottle cough and/or cold medicine;
» 1 small bottle stomach antibiotic: Ciprofloxacin, etc.;
» 1 small bottle anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide.
» Do not bring sleeping pills. They are a respiratory depressant;
» 1 small bottle of water purification tablets or water filter;
» 1 set earplugs;
» Extra prescription glasses, contact lens supplies. Contact lens wearers, please bring glasses in case of emergency. A new pair could be quickly made in Kathmandu, Lhasa, or Kashgar for just $20. Please order upon arrival if you are interested.

Personal Food:
On the mountain we supply plenty of food for you to cook 3 hot meals each day. This food will consist of soup, local cheese & sausage, biscuits, dried noodles, potatoes, rice, porridge, butter, dried and tinned vegetables, fruit, meats, and fish, tea with milk and sugar, powdered juice drink, and drinking chocolate. Our sherpas/local porter will be carrying this food to the higher camps.
» We ask each member to bring their own imported daily snack and energy foods. We do not provide cold “snack” food such as chocolate or "energy-bars". We ask that you bring or buy your own "snack" or daily cold energy food, 2-3 kilos/4-6 pounds is a good amount (for the trek and Island Peak combined). A growing variety of imported foods such as European and American cheeses, chocolates, biscuits, cookies, nuts, and locally made power-bars are now available in Kathmandu, at realistic prices. However, imported power bars, GU, re-hydration drinks, dehydrated food, "freeze-dried meals", imported cheese and sausage are not available. If you want these items, you must bring them from your home country. Many of our members, especially Britons, Europeans, and Australians with tiny baggage allowances, now purchase their daily snacks in Kathmandu. Our schedule in Kathmandu allows plenty of time for shopping.

Practical:
» 1 small roll of repair tape, 1 sewing repair kit;
» 1 cigarette lighter, 1 small box matches;
» 1 compass or GPS;
» Recent good quality map of visiting area.
» 1 battery powered alarm clock/watch;
» 1 camera and film, or digital camera with extra cards and extra batteries;
» nylon stuff sacks For food and gear storage, large Ziplocs are useful also;
» 3 Water bottles (1 litre) wide-mouth Nalgene (1 is a pee bottle);
» 1 plastic cup and spoon;
» 1 small folding knife;
» binoculars (optional);
» 4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks;
» passport, 2 extra passport photos, flight ticket, flight itinerary;
» separate photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance;
» dollars, pounds or euros cash for purchasing Nepalese visa at Kathmandu airport, Tibet visa, for paying for restaurants and hotels, for gratuities, snacks, and to purchase your own drinks and gifts;
» credit cards, Bank/ATM/Cash machine cards for use for withdrawing funds from cash machines (bring a photocopy of your cards), traveler's checks, etc.;
» 1 bathing suit/swimming costume (you never know);
» basecamp entertainment. It is good to bring additional items which you have found to be useful on previous expeditions. For example: paperback books, playing cards, ipod mp3 player, short-wave radio, game boys, musical instruments, ear plugs, lots of batteries, etc.;
» travel clothes for basecamp and in town;

This Peak Climbing equipment list has been prepared by Adventure Zambuling Treks (P) Ltd.
Please submit any equipment questions or concerns to: info@advzambuling.com

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