Mt. Kachenjunga (8586m) Expedition

Nepal
Tough
Available Departures: Spring and Autumn
68 days
Trip Code: MKENP

Mt. Kachenjunga (8586m) Expedition

At a glance
  • Trip Start: Kathmandu
  • Trip End: Kathmandu
  • Trek Start: Taplejung
  • Trek End: Taplejung
  • Climbing Period: 42 days
  • Maximum Altitude: 8586m
  • Group Size: 4-10
  • Accommodation: Lodge and Camp
  • Meals: Standard
  • Service: Full board

Mount Kanchanjunga; Standing at 8586m Kanchanjunga is the third highest peak in the world and the second highest in Nepal. It was first climbed by a British team in 1955. The peak consists of four summits. The west summit, Yalung Kang, 8420m high, and some people classify it as a separate 8000m peak. Kanchanjunga (8586m) range lies in the extreme north-west of Nepal. which is aligned north to south along the Nepal-Sikkim border.The old hill resort of Darjeeling made it one of the better known mountains during the initial phase of Himalayan exploration.

The name “Kanchenjunga” is delivered from the Tibetan word ‘Kanchen’ and ‘Dzonga’ translated means “The Five Treasures of the Great Snows”, as it contains five peaks, Kanchenjunga I (8586m), Kanchenjunga West (8505m), Kanchenjunga South (8494m) and Kangbachen (7903m). The treasures represent the five repositories of God, which are gold, silver, gems, grain, and holy books.

Trekking route of Kanchenjunga is drained by Tamur River that meets Arun below Mulghat. The river is fed by numerous glaciers. The north glaciers of the main peaks are clockwise Nupchu, Lhonak, Chichima, Gimsung, Pyramid, Kanchenjunga and Ramtang. West and south of the main peak are Kumbhakarna (Jannu), Yamatari and Yalung glaciers. The Kanchangunga area has a profusion of high summits of which three are above 8,000m. & 11 above 7,000m.

Itinerary

Namaste! And welcome to Kathmandu, the colourful capital of Nepal where ornately carved balconies mingle with beautiful shrines and temples. Your adventure begins with a welcome meeting on arrival at the exit gate of Kathmandu airport. Our staff will welcome you and pick you to your accommodated hotel. Please seek our company palmplate to find our staff at the main exit gate of the airport. Rest of the day you can relax at the hotel or short evening walk around local market on your own as per your wish.

A well deserved rest day at cosy of hotel after a long tiring flight. This day, one can move around nearby local market to purchase or hire trekking equipment that is necessary for the trekking like sleeping bags, walking sticks etc, exchange currency as requirement or simply walk around in the local market or Kathmandu Durbar squire nearby with small entrance fee as per your preference on your own. Evening at the hotel lobby there will be pre-trip briefing in which you will be introduced with your trekking guide and explained about your trip in short, instruction for safety etc.

Day is at leisure to make necessary preparation for your big adventure and process for the Government formalities. Check the equipment, last minute shopping. Team will need to go to Ministry of Tourism for the Briefing before expedition.

Accomodation

Hotel

Meals

Breakfast

We take a morning flight to Bhadrapur. From there we drive for 2 hours to Birtamod, and for a further 4 hours to Phidim where we overnight.

We set off early to make the journey by road from Phidim to Taplejung, or to Suketar. On arrival we meet with our porters and after loading up, we start trekking. We follow a ridge to start with, before descending through forests to the valley and our overnight stop at Lali Kharka 2265m.

The day starts with a descent through the village of Tambawa to Pakora, where we cross the Phawa Khola by the suspension bridge. We then climb steeply into the forests, which will give us welcome shade from the heat of the day. From the top of the pass at Khare Bhanjyang 2129m, we may get our first views of distant Kangchenjunga. We overnight at Khare Bhanjyang

Today’s walk starts with a descent to warm up, passing several villages, including the delightfully named Funfun, where we may get our first views of impressive Jannu. The rest of the day is up and down to the next camp at Mamamkhe, a substantial village of about 60 houses 1785m.

A shorter day largely of contouring as we follow the valley above the river Kabeli Khola. Climbing through terraced fields we reach Yamphudin 2080m, the most remote permanent village on our route.

We start the day with a climb to the pass at Dupi Bhanjyang (2,620m). Trekking downhill through the woods we come to our overnight destination, the Omje Khola river 2830m.

Leaving the farmlands behind, we now trek mostly through forest and pasture land. We gain further height to cross the pass of Lamite Bhanjyang 3430m, descending to the valley of the Simbua river that flows from the Yalung glacier. We overnight in the wooded valley at Tortong(2995m).

We have an acclimatisation day at Thoronton, and a local walk to gain height during the day is recommended, returning to spend a second night at the same altitude. This is a very important aspect of our trek and will undoubtedly assist with the success, as well as with our enjoyment of it.

Though we continue to gain height, today’s walk is gentle and follows the Simbuwa river. The rhododendron forests thin to give superb views of Kabru 7338m and Talung 7349m. Our overnight is at Tseram 3870m and at this altitude, we can expect a colder night.

Today we reach the tree line and the landscape opens out to the valley of the Yalung Glacier, littered with moraines and glacial debris. We follow the northern edge of the glacier with good views of Kabru South 7317m, Rathong 6682m and Kokthang 6148m. We overnight at Ramche. 4580m.

We have an acclimatisation day at Ramze, and a local walk to gain height during the day is recommended, returning to spend a second night at the same altitude. This is a very important aspect of our trek and will undoubtedly assist with the success, as well as with our enjoyment of it.

We trek to South Base Camp.

Ceremonies mark life. Many come with a birth of a child, a union of a couple or upon death. For the Sherpa, they will not climb mountains without one such ceremony, a Puja. Every sherpa people have a strong belief that each and every mountains abodes realm of gods and goddesses.

The Puja is an important ceremony where we pay respect to the mountain and offer blessings for safe passage before heading up onto Mountain.

Our Puja consisted of a Lama (Monk) and our entire crew participating in prayers, rice and flour throwing, and 3 sips of strong whiskey (just to name a few things from our 3-hour ceremony!). The stupa will be covered in beautiful decorations and sculptures made out of butter and tsampa, with plates full of food and drinks as offerings. It was incredible to witness and to be a part of.

Accomodation

Camp

Meals

BLD

We do forth and back to our various camps on the mountain to fit our body with high altitude and weather we face during the actual climbing. On the day of the summit, we walk early mid night from our final high camp so that we can reach the summit as early morning as possible so that we do get good weather to return too. As the day gets older, the weather in mountain starts to get voilent and we no one wants to be in mercy of the mountain. The time and the oxygen in our oxygen cylinder is very crucial on the day as summit is just the half way of our success. If any things gets serious(time, body fitness, Oxygen level...), there will always be next time if we live and it will be very wise decision to return back for the next day. After summit we will return back to our base camp.

Accomodation

Camp

Meals

BLD, high altitude food during climb

Its cruicial to clean up our base camp so that mountain remain clean. We clean our litter and pack up our equipment for move next day.

Accomodation

Camp

Meals

BLD

Retrace the same track used previously to Tseram. We have one more chance to to observe natural beauty of the locality which we have missed previously.

Retrace the same track used previously to Tseram. We have one more chance to to observe natural beauty of the locality which we have missed previously.

Retrace the same track used previously to Tseram. We have one more chance to to observe natural beauty of the locality which we have missed previously.

Retrace the same track used previously to Tseram. We have one more chance to to observe natural beauty of the locality which we have missed previously.

Retrace the same track used previously to Tseram. We have one more chance to to observe natural beauty of the locality which we have missed previously.

A chance to do some shopping, explore at leisure or merely relax by the hotel. We enjoy a final night together, reliving the trek and our extraordinary achievements.

Accomodation

Hotel

Meals

Breakfast

Today we have a de-briefing at the Ministry of Tourism. Remaining day is at leisure.

Evening we gather with all members and celebrate your safe return and share some adventure stories.

Accomodation

Hotel

Meals

Breakfast

We say 'Namaste' for memories that will last a lifetime. There are no activities planned for today and you are able to depart the hotel at any time. Check out time from the hotel is at 12 noon. If you are departing later, you can arrange luggage storage at the hotel. For your final departure, our staff will pick you up from the hotel and transfer to Kathmandu airport approximately 3 hours prior to your international flight time.

Meals

Breakfast

Drive

30 mins

Includes/Excludes

Includes

  • Arrival & Departure Airport transfers
  • All ground transportation
  • 6 nights in Kathmandu Hotel Gokarna Forest Resort   on BB
  • Flight: KTM-Bhadrapur; Biratnagar-KTM with airport tax & Cargo
  • Climbing Permit, National Park fee
  • 1 Government Liaison officer and Garbage Deposit Fees
  • 1 Trekking & Base camp Manager
  • 1 Cook and Kitchen helper at the Base camp
  • 85 kgs per member for personal Equipments
  • All required porters to carry members equipment and Food & Group Equipment
  • All Nepali staffs' Insurance/ wages and equipment allowance
  • Full camping accommodation as per itinerary
  • All camping equiments for trek, Base Camp & High Camp for member & Sherpa
  • 1 Solar Pannel for light & battery charge at Base Camp
  • 1 Gas heater for Dinning tent at Base camp
  • 1 VE 25 North Face Tent per member at Base camp
  • Base Camp Food for member & for all our Nepali staffs
  • High Altitude Climbing Sherpa- Everest Summiter
  • High Altitude Food for member & High altitude Sherpa
  • 18 EPI gas  250mg / High Altitude Cooking Pot &  cooking Stove ,
  • 6 bottle oxygen with Mask & regulator for Member
  • 4 bottle oxyent with Mask & regulator High Altitude Sherpa
  • 1 Satelite phone and Radio Walkie talkies set for Group Use
  • All necessary Climbing route equipments
  • First Aid Kit & 1 Gamow bag fo

Excludes

  • International Flight to Kathmandu Nepal
  • Nepalese Visa fee
  • Lunch & Dinner in Kathmandu
  • Personal Travel,  Medical and rescue Insurance
  • All personal climbing equipments for ascent
  • High Altitude Sherpa Summit bonus US$ 2500 Per Sherpa, if Summit
  • High altitude Climbing Bonus US$ 1500 Per sherpa if not Summit
  • Extra nights in Kathmandu hotel
  • Tips for supporting staffs
  • Extra Yaks or porter & Extra Oxygen bottle (on request only)
  • Emergency rescue evacuation cost if needed
  • and  All other personal nature expenses

Equipments

Climbing harness

  • 5 meters (16 ft.) of 6mm accessory cord
  • Figure 8 abseil/belay device (tube style devices, i.e. ATC will not work on fixed lines)
  • Full size ascender (i.e. PetzlAscention)
  • 2 locking carabiners, 1 large and 1 small
  • 4 non-locking carabiners
  • Ice axe with leash
  • Steel crampons with anti-balling plates
  • Trekking poles
  • Abseiling/Rappelling Gloves

Upper Body:

  • 2 cotton t-shirts
  • 2 synthetic t-shirts
  • 2 long sleeve synthetic shirts
  • Light-weight soft shell jacket
  • Medium weight insulatingjacket (fleece, down, or synthetic)
  • Hard shell jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable (Gore-Tex or similar)
  • Heavy down coat
  • For 8,000m peaks an 8,000m down coat with hood or an 8,000m suit can be used instead

Hands:

  • For 8,000m peaks an 8,000m down coat with hood or an 8,000m suit can be used:
  • Lightweight poly-liner gloves
  • Mid-weight soft shell gloves – water/wind resistant
  • Heavy- weight waterproof gloves – Gore-tex shell with removable liner
  • Expedition weight mittens -Gore-tex over mitt matched polar fleece mitt liner

Head:

  • Helmet
  • Warm hat that covers your ears
  • Balaclava
  • Face mask
  • Baseball hat or brimmed sun hat
  • Glacier sunglasses with side shields
  • Ski goggles with light and dark lenses
  • Glasses with clear lenses to protect your eyes while climbing to the summit on windy nights. (cost less than 15-20 dollars in Kathmandu depends on quality)
  • Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs
  • Buff/neck gaiter
  • Bandana or head scarf (optional)

Lower Body:

  • Synthetic underwear
  • Hiking shorts
  • Hiking pants
  • 2 pair lightweight thermal bottoms
  • Medium or expedition weight thermal bottoms
  • Polar fleece or soft shell pants
  • Waterproof/breathable pants with full side zips (Gore-Tex or similar)
  • Heavy insulating pants
  • For 8,000m peaks: 8,000m down pants or a 8,000m suit can be used instead

Feet:

Boots

  • For 6,000m peaks: Plastic or composite double boots (Koflach, La SportivaSpantik, etc) Modern waterproof, single boots designed for 4-5,000m peaks may be suitable if they can be worn with 5 pairs of socks and vapor barrier lines and/or they are equipped with overboots
  • For 8,000m peaks: 8,000m boots - One-Sport Millet Everest boots or equivalent
  • Sturdy leather walking boots
  • Trainers, running shoes and/or sandals
  • Down booties (optional)
  • 3 pair med-heavy poly or wool socks
  • 2 pair poly or wool liner socks (optional)
  • Vapor barrier liner socks (optional)
  • 2 pair lightweight trekking socks
  • Cotton socks for in town

Sleeping:

Down sleeping bag

  • For 8,000m peaks: -29C or -20F (If you sleep cold consider -40C or -40F)
  • Down base camp sleeping bag should be rated to -10C or 15F (If you sleep cold consider -18C or 0F)
  • 2 closed cell foam kari-mats (sleeping pads) for use in basecamp and high altitude (these can be purchased inexpensively in Kathmandu)
  • High quality inflatable sleeping pad designed for cold weather (Thermosets)
  • Patch kit for inflatable pad
  • Rucksack and Travel Bags:
  • Medium rucksack/backpack (50-70 Litres / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used as carry-on bag)
  • Waterproof rucksack cover (optional)
  • 2 large (120+ L / 7500+ cubic inch) duffle kit bags for clothing and equipment
  • Small luggage locks for duffel kit bags

Personal Hygiene:

  • Female or male hygiene supplies
  • 2 tubes lip sun cream
  • Large tube skin sun cream (min factor 30)
  • Anti-mosquito cream
  • Toothpaste/brush
  • Hand sanitizer gel (small-medium bottle)
  • Bar of soap small towel
  • Hand wipes
  • Face Mask
  • Hand sanitizer
  • Disposable gloves
  • Disinfectant wipes

Medical:

  • Small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, first-aid tape, plasters (Band-Aids), personal medications, etc.
  • Blister repair kit
  • 10 anti-diarrhea pills
  • 20 anti-headache pills
  • 10 cough and/or cold medicine
  • Anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide
  • 10 Stomach antibiotics: Ciprofloxacin, etc.
  • 5 Azithromycin tables
  • Steri pen or bottle of water purification tablets
  • Cough sweets/lozenges (Halls/Stepils)
  • Earplugs
  • Extra prescription glasses/contact lenses and supplies

Practical personal items:

  • Small roll of repair tape
  • Sewing repair kit
  • Cigarette lighter
  • Small box matches
  • Compass or GPS
  • Battery powered alarm clock/watch
  • Camera with extra cards and extra batteries
  • Nylon stuff sacks for food and gear storage
  • 2 water bottles (1 litre) wide-mouth Nalgene
  • Pee bottle (1litre or larger)
  • Plastic cup and spoon
  • Small folding knife
  • Binoculars (optional)
  • 4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks
  • Passport, 2 extra passport photos, flight ticket, flight itinerary
  • Separate photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance
  • Dollars, pounds, or euros cash
  • Bathing suit/swim suit (you never know)
  • Paperback books, playing cards, ipod/mp3 player, musical instruments, extra batteries, etc.
  • Travel clothes for basecamp and in town
  • Umbrella (optional)
  • Small solar panels for personal electronics (optional)

Personal Food:

  • Snack food/daily energy food
  • Dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for summit attempt

Map

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