Lobuche Peak and Island Peak Climbing combined

Nepal
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Available Departures: Spring and Autumn
24 Days
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Trip Code: LPIPCL

Lobuche Peak and Island Peak Climbing combined

At a glance
  • Maximum Altitude: 6189m

Lobuche Peak offer an incredible opportunity to climb one of Nepal’s most popular trekking peaks, Lobuche East (6,119m/20,075ft), while exploring the stunning Everest region. This trek combines high-altitude trekking with technical climbing, taking you through iconic locations like Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar before the summit attempt. The climb rewards you with breathtaking views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, and more.

Island Peak combine an exhilarating trekking adventure with a thrilling peak climbing experience. Standing at 6,189m (20,305ft), Island Peak (Imja Tse) is one of Nepal’s most popular trekking peaks, offering stunning views of Lhotse, Makalu, and the Everest region. The journey includes trekking through iconic trails, cultural exploration in Sherpa villages, and a technical climb to the summit, making it ideal for adventure enthusiasts.

Itinerary

Namaste! And welcome to Kathmandu, the colourful capital of Nepal where ornately carved balconies mingle with beautiful shrines and temples. Your adventure begins with a welcome meeting on arrival at the exit gate of Kathmandu airport. Our staff will welcome you and pick you to your accommodated hotel. Please seek our company palmplate to find our staff at the main exit gate of the airport. Rest of the day you can relax at the hotel or short evening walk around local market on your own as per your wish. Hotel.

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Explore the fascinating city of Kathmandu, with its temples and markets, or take an optional excursion (can be booked locally through our Nepal office) into the Kathmandu Valley. This is permit issuing day. There will be pre tip briefing in the evening along with your guide. Hotel.

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Early start for a spectacular mountain flight to the tiny airstrip of Lukla 2827m. Here we meet with our porters and begin the trek with a short walk to Phakding 2600m. Lodge.

Time

3 hours
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A steady climb through the fertile Dudh Kosi valley, with its many farms and settlements, to Namche Bazaar 3440m, the most important Sherpa town and a former trading centre with Tibet. Lodge.

Time

5 hours
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Today is an acclimatisation day. Namche Bazaar is well worth exploring, with its Buddhist monastery and distant views of Everest. For better acclimatisation it is recommended that you walk to the Everest View Hotel (½ day walk) or to Thame. Lodge.

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We now follow the Dudh Khosi for the next few days and, whilst the distances are relatively short, it is important that we don’t go too high too quickly in order that we can acclimatise properly. This is a vital ingredient to the enjoyment and success of the trip. Lodge.

Time

4 / 5 hours
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Another quite short day as we make our way further up the Gokyo valley to Machermo 4470m. Lodge.

Time

3 / 4 hours
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We have an acclimatisation day at Machermo, and a local walk to gain height during the day is recommended, returning to spend a second night at the same altitude. This is a very important aspect of our trek and will undoubtedly assist with the success, as well as with our enjoyment of it. Lodge.

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Although there is still some ascent the trail is gentle and the trek is relatively short. As we approach Gokyo we pass the beautiful lakes of Tso Mengma, Tso Palumo and Tso Rangmo, otherwise known as Dudh Pokhari. It is beside the third lake that we find the village of Gokyo. Lodge.

Time

3 / 4 hours
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After an early start we make our way up Gokyo Ri 5360m directly above the village of Gokyo, for a magnificent panoramic vista. The view that unfolds is simply stunning. We can see from Cho Oyu in the north all the way around to Ama Dablam and beyond. Some of the best views of Everest are to be seen from Gokyo Ri. A spectacular morning spent on this summit before dropping back down to Gokyo.  After something to eat we continue across the path on the Ngozumba glacier on to Dzonglha. Lodge.

Time

6 / 7 hours
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Gokyo valley is separated from the Khumbu Valley by a barrier of mountains formed by Taweche 6542m, Cholatse 6440m and Lobuje 6119m but there exists a high level pass that we will take (snow conditions permitting) called the Cho La, which will give us access to Dzonglha. Dzonglha is situated below and opposite our first peak, Lobuje East, and from here you will have fine views of the summit ridge of this impressive mountain. Lodge.

Time

6 / 8 hours
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From Dzonglha we make our way up to the Base Camp which is situated at around 5000m by the side of a beautiful hidden mountain lake with fine views of our mountain and across to Ama Dablam 6856m. Camp.

Time

3 / 4 hours
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An essential day to prepare us for the summit day. A mixture of ascending high and resting before spending a second night at this altitude is essential. Camp.

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After an early breakfast we will be donning our crampons and roping up for our ascent of the South ridge. The well defined arête leads to a junction with the summit ridge, which is followed north westwards to the false summit. Depending upon the prevailing snow conditions, and whether cornices have formed, we may be able to continue along the fine, exposed ridge to the true summit at 6119m. But we do have a long day ahead of us as we will be descending to base camp for a meal. Camp.

Time

8 / 10 hours
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From base camp we will trek around to the village of Lobuje 4910m where we will rest for the afternoon. Lodge.

Time

3 hours
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We will leave the main Everest Base Camp trail and trek towards the Kongma La which slips through between the trekking peaks of Pokalde 5806m before dropping down towards the Imja Khola which we will follow to Chukhung. Lodge.

Time

4 / 6 hours
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We begin our trek to Base Camp along a ridge giving fine views of our mountain and a stunning panorama all around. Our goal, Island Peak, is clearly visible straight ahead, whilst we have Ama Dablam 6856m to our right and the Nuptse/Lhotse wall towering over us on the left. Camp.

Time

3 / 4 hours
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With an early start we will be well ahead of the teams starting from the Base Camp. Soon after leaving high camp we will rope up and start on the first snow slopes where we will be using our crampons and ice axes. The route is fairly easy to follow and winds its way up snow gullies and rock bands before easing off to a small plateau, where we will be able to take a good rest and enjoy the first rays of dawn. Ahead of us lies a short steep slope that leads to the summit ridge, which we will follow to the summit itself. We will probably be well ahead of any other parties, having had a head start from high camp, and we can enjoy the summit and stupendous views around us before descending back to Base Camp. Camp.

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We leave Base Camp and follow our course back to the village of Pangboche 3901m with its 300 year old monastery containing wall paintings and Tibetan manuscripts. The first part of our journey is alongside the Imja Khola and through Dingboche. The impressive north face of Taweche lies dead ahead as we reflect on our achievement. Lodge.

Time

5 hours
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We trek to Deboche 3757m and then continue, through a wonderful setting of Rhododendron to Thyangboche with its Monastery in a magical setting that commands impressive views of shapely Ama Dablam. The scenery changes yet again as we walk through woodlands to reach Namche Bazaar. An optional evening walk will give us our last views of Everest. Lodge.

Time

4 / 5 hours
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We may awake to the sound of Tibetan horns high above the village. From here the deep valley of the Dudh Kosi drops away as we retrace our steps to Lukla. Lodge.

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We fly from the tiny mountain air strip back to Kathmandu, with a last chance to glimpse the might snow-capped Himalaya in the distance. Overnight at the hotel. Hotel.

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A chance to do some shopping, explore or merely relax and reflect on your trek. Hotel.

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Transfer to Kathmandu airport.

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Includes/Excludes

Includes

  • All ground transportation as per itinerary
  • 4 night hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with B/B plan.
  • Both way domestic Air fare (KTM-LUK-KTM) with airport tax
  • Cargo charges
  • TIMs (Trekking Information Management system) card
  • Everest National Park Entry fee
  • Peak climbing permit
  • Food for the members on camping basis/ Lodge basis
  • All camping equipment and camping charges during climbing period
  • All required group climbing equipments( like fixed ropes, man rope, ice bar, ice screw.....)
  • All required Nepalese staffs including climbing support sherpa
  • Climbing support Sherpa equipments
  • All Nepalese staffs insurance
  • Company service charge and government taxes etc.

Excludes

  • International flight with airport tax.
  • Nepalese Entry Visa fee
  • Food during stay in Kathmandu
  • All personal equipment and personal expenses
  • All personal climbing gears
  • Photography Charges, Monument charges and Monument entry fees
  • Personal Medical and travel insurance(must cover helicopter rescue evacuation cost)
  • Personal Medicine
  • Telephone and internet charges
  • Laundry charges
  • Alcoholic beverage, bottled drinks and cold drinks during the trip
  • Rescue evacuation charges if required
  • Staff and porters Tips

Equipments

Climbing equipment:
» Climbing harness;
» One 3 metre/10 foot sling and three 2 metre/6 foot slings.
» Figure 8/Abseil belay device;
» 1 large mitten sized ascender (most members use the large petzl) and arm length leash;
» 2 locking carabiners, (1 large and 1 small)
» 4 regular carabiners;
» Good quality Ice axe with leash;
» Crampons - must fit boots perfectly. Steel crampons with anti-balling (anti-bot) plates are the best;
» Optional; Adjustable trekking poles;

Upper Body:
» 2 cotton t-shirts;
» 1 polypropylene t-shirt;
» 1 long sleeve polypropylene shirts, lightweight;
» 1 polar fleece pullovers, medium weight;
» 1 polar fleece jacket.
» Gore-Tex jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable;
» Lightweight down jacket for those chilly days in camp;

Hands:
» 1 pr. lightweight poly-liner gloves. These will be worn when tying knots, but not inside your mitts;
» 1 pair mittens, consists of 1 Gore-tex over mitt matched with the very warm polar fleece mitt liner (For more about high altitude mitts.

Head:
» Warm hat wool or synthetic that covers your ears;
» Balaclava;
» Face mask;
» Ballcap or brimmed suncap;
» Glacier sunglasses with side shields (you can purchase these inexpensively in Kathmandu,
» 1 pair ski goggles (Optional) with light and dark lens;
» Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs;
» Bandana or head scarf, also useful for dusty conditions.

Lower Body:
» Cotton underwear briefs;
» 1 pair walking shorts;
» 1 pair walking trousers for trekking and around camp;
» 1 pair lightweight thermal bottoms;
» 1 pair medium or expedition weight thermal bottoms;
» 1 pair polar fleece trousers;
» 1 pair Gore-Tex trousers, salopettes, or bibs. Waterproof/breathable with full side zips;
Your clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags.

Feet:
» 1 pair Double Plastic boots (Koflach);
Modern single waterproof-leather climbing boots with special insulation for cold weather/winter climbing on 4000 metre/13,000 foot high peaks are OK, as long as they will fit comfortably with two thick pair of socks and a vapour barrier liner and the boot will fit the crampon perfectly.
» 1 pair sturdy leather walking boots with good ankle support (we mean leather trekking, not climbing boots) for the trek;
» 1 pair trainers, running shoes and/or sandals for Kathmandu and in camp;
» 1 pair down booties (optional);
» 2 pair med-heavy poly or wool socks;
» 2- pair of liner socks. Polypropylene or wool;
» Vapour barrier liner socks or plastic bread-bags;
» 2 pair lightweight trekking socks, poly or wool;
» Cotton socks for in town.

Sleeping:
» 1 good quality sleeping bag (good to -30 degrees C)
» At least 1 closed cell foam kari-mats. We do not recommend inflatable mats, as we have never seen one not puncture. You can buy these non inflatable mats very inexpensively in Kathmandu. Why carry foam mats around the world, when you can purchase them inexpensively in Kathmandu?
Your sleeping bags should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags.

Rucksack and Travel Bags:
» 1 medium rucksack (50-70 litres / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used for airplane carry);
» 1 or 2 large (120 L / 7500 cubic inch) duffle kit bags for clothing and equipment. Must be durable for use on pack animals or porters;
» Small padlocks for duffel kit bags.

Personal Hygiene:
» female or male hygiene supplies;
» 2 tubes lip sun cream, 1 large tube skin sun cream (min.factor 15);
» anti-mosquito cream;
» 1 toothpaste/brush;
» 1 bar soap or hand sanitizer gel/1 small towel;
» hand wipes.

Medical:
Medications are inexpensive and readily available in Kathmandu with no Doctor`s prescription:
» small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, first-aid tape, plasters (band-aids), personal medications, etc. The leaders will have extensive first-aid kits, so leave anything extra behind. Please let your leader know about any medical issues before the climb;
» 1 skin blister repair kit;
» 1 small bottle anti-diarrhea pills;
» 1 small bottle anti-headache pills;
» 1 small bottle cough and/or cold medicine;
» 1 small bottle stomach antibiotic: Ciprofloxacin, etc.;
» 1 small bottle anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide.
» Do not bring sleeping pills. They are a respiratory depressant;
» 1 small bottle of water purification tablets or water filter;
» 1 set earplugs;
» Extra prescription glasses, contact lens supplies. Contact lens wearers, please bring glasses in case of emergency. A new pair could be quickly made in Kathmandu, Lhasa, or Kashgar for just $20. Please order upon arrival if you are interested.

Personal Food:
On the mountain we supply plenty of food for you to cook 3 hot meals each day. This food will consist of soup, local cheese & sausage, biscuits, dried noodles, potatoes, rice, porridge, butter, dried and tinned vegetables, fruit, meats, and fish, tea with milk and sugar, powdered juice drink, and drinking chocolate. Our sherpas/local porter will be carrying this food to the higher camps.
» We ask each member to bring their own imported daily snack and energy foods. We do not provide cold “snack” food such as chocolate or "energy-bars". We ask that you bring or buy your own "snack" or daily cold energy food, 2-3 kilos/4-6 pounds is a good amount (for the trek and Island Peak combined). A growing variety of imported foods such as European and American cheeses, chocolates, biscuits, cookies, nuts, and locally made power-bars are now available in Kathmandu, at realistic prices. However, imported power bars, GU, re-hydration drinks, dehydrated food, "freeze-dried meals", imported cheese and sausage are not available. If you want these items, you must bring them from your home country. Many of our members, especially Britons, Europeans, and Australians with tiny baggage allowances, now purchase their daily snacks in Kathmandu. Our schedule in Kathmandu allows plenty of time for shopping.

Practical:
» 1 small roll of repair tape, 1 sewing repair kit;
» 1 cigarette lighter, 1 small box matches;
» 1 compass or GPS;
» Recent good quality map of visiting area.
» 1 battery powered alarm clock/watch;
» 1 camera and film, or digital camera with extra cards and extra batteries;
» nylon stuff sacks For food and gear storage, large Ziplocs are useful also;
» 3 Water bottles (1 litre) wide-mouth Nalgene (1 is a pee bottle);
» 1 plastic cup and spoon;
» 1 small folding knife;
» binoculars (optional);
» 4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks;
» passport, 2 extra passport photos, flight ticket, flight itinerary;
» separate photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance;
» dollars, pounds or euros cash for purchasing Nepalese visa at Kathmandu airport, Tibet visa, for paying for restaurants and hotels, for gratuities, snacks, and to purchase your own drinks and gifts;
» credit cards, Bank/ATM/Cash machine cards for use for withdrawing funds from cash machines (bring a photocopy of your cards), traveler's checks, etc.;
» 1 bathing suit/swimming costume (you never know);
» basecamp entertainment. It is good to bring additional items which you have found to be useful on previous expeditions. For example: paperback books, playing cards, ipod mp3 player, short-wave radio, game boys, musical instruments, ear plugs, lots of batteries, etc.;
» travel clothes for basecamp and in town;

This Peak Climbing equipment list has been prepared by Adventure Zambuling Treks (P) Ltd.
Please submit any equipment questions or concerns to: info@advzambuling.com

Map

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