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Mt. Kachenjunga Expedition 8586m.

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Difficulty : Strenuous

Reference Code: MKENP

Trip Start: Kathmandu

Trek Start: Taplejung

Trek Days: 62 days

Peak Climbing Period: 42 days

Maximum Altitude: 8586m.

Age: 25-60 years

Season: Spring and Autumn

Accommodation: Camp

Service: Full board

Destination: Nepal

Trip End: Kathmandu

Trek End: Taplejung

Trip Durations: 68 days

Peak Grade: Extreme

Physical Rating: Strenuous

Group Size: 2-10

Theme: Expedition

Meals: Standard

Mount Kanchanjunga; Standing at 8586m Kanchanjunga is the third highest peak in the world and the second highest in Nepal. It was first climbed by a British team in 1955. The peak consists of four summits. The west summit, Yalung Kang, 8420m high, and some people classify it as a separate 8000m peak. Kanchanjunga (8586m) range lies in the extreme north-west of Nepal. which is aligned north to south along the Nepal-Sikkim border.The old hill resort of Darjeeling made it one of the better known mountains during the initial phase of Himalayan exploration. 

The name “Kanchenjunga” is delivered from the Tibetan word  'Kanchen' and 'Dzonga'  translated means "The Five Treasures of the Great Snows", as it contains five peaks, Kanchenjunga I (8586m), Kanchenjunga West (8505m), Kanchenjunga South (8494m) and Kangbachen (7903m).  The treasures represent the five repositories of God, which are gold, silver, gems, grain, and holy books

Trekking route of Kanchenjunga is drained by Tamur River that meets Arun below Mulghat. The river is fed by numerous glaciers. The north glaciers  of the main peaks are clockwise Nupchu, Lhonak, Chichima, Gimsung, Pyramid, Kanchenjunga and Ramtang. West and south of the main peak are Kumbhakarna (Jannu), Yamatari and Yalung glaciers. The Kanchangunga area has a profusion of high summits of which three are above 8,000m. & 11 above 7,000m.

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Day 01 Arrival in Kathmandu 1350m.

Namaste! And welcome to Kathmandu, the colourful capital of Nepal where ornately carved balconies mingle with beautiful shrines and temples. Your adventure begins with a welcome meeting on arrival at the exit gate of Kathmandu airport. Our staff will welcome you and pick you to your accommodated hotel. Please seek our company palmplate to find our staff at the main exit gate of the airport. Rest of the day you can relax at the hotel or short evening walk around local market on your own as per your wish.

Day 02 Rest and preparation day

A well deserved rest day at cosy of hotel after a long tiring flight. This day, one can move around nearby local market to purchase or hire trekking equipment that is necessary for the trekking like sleeping bags, walking sticks etc, exchange currency as requirement or simply walk around in the local market or Kathmandu Durbar squire nearby with small entrance fee as per your preference on your own. Evening at the hotel lobby there will be pre-trip briefing in which you will be introduced with your trekking guide and explained about your trip in short, instruction for safety etc.

Day 03 Official works and Pre trip briefing by officers of Ministry of Tourism

Day is at leisure to make necessary preparation for your big adventure and process for the Government formalities. Check the equipment, last minute shopping. Team will need to go to Ministry of Tourism for the Briefing before expedition.

Accommodation: Hotel
Meals include: Breakfast

Day 04 Fly to Bhadrapur 91m. and Drive to Phidim 1050m.

We take a morning flight to Bhadrapur. From there we drive for 2 hours to Birtamod, and for a further 4 hours to Phidim where we overnight.

Day 05 Drive to Taplejung 1820m. and trek to Lali Kharka 2265m.

We set off early to make the journey by road from Phidim to Taplejung, or to Suketar. On arrival we meet with our porters and after loading up, we start trekking. We follow a ridge to start with, before descending through forests to the valley and our overnight stop at Lali Kharka 2265m.

Day 06 Trek to Khare Bhanjyang 2129m.

The day starts with a descent through the village of Tambawa to Pakora, where we cross the Phawa Khola by the suspension bridge. We then climb steeply into the forests, which will give us welcome shade from the heat of the day. From the top of the pass at Khare Bhanjyang 2129m, we may get our first views of distant Kangchenjunga. We overnight at Khare Bhanjyang

Day 07 Trek to Mamankhe 1785m.

Today’s walk starts with a descent to warm up, passing several villages, including the delightfully named Funfun, where we may get our first views of impressive Jannu. The rest of the day is up and down to the next camp at Mamamkhe, a substantial village of about 60 houses 1785m.

Day 08 Trek to Yamphudin 2080m.

A shorter day largely of contouring as we follow the valley above the river Kabeli Khola. Climbing through terraced fields we reach Yamphudin 2080m, the most remote permanent village on our route.

Day 09 Trek to Omje Khola 2830m.

We start the day with a climb to the pass at Dupi Bhanjyang (2,620m). Trekking downhill through the woods we come to our overnight destination, the Omje Khola river 2830m.

Day 10 Trek to Tortong 2995m.

Leaving the farmlands behind, we now trek mostly through forest and pasture land. We gain further height to cross the pass of Lamite Bhanjyang 3430m, descending to the valley of the Simbua river that flows from the Yalung glacier. We overnight in the wooded valley at Tortong(2995m).

Day 11 Rest Day

We have an acclimatisation day at Thoronton, and a local walk to gain height during the day is recommended, returning to spend a second night at the same altitude. This is a very important aspect of our trek and will undoubtedly assist with the success, as well as with our enjoyment of it.

Day 12 Trek to Cheram 3870m.

Though we continue to gain height, today’s walk is gentle and follows the Simbuwa river. The rhododendron forests thin to give superb views of Kabru 7338m and Talung 7349m. Our overnight is at Tseram 3870m and at this altitude, we can expect a colder night.

Day 13 Trek to Ramche 4580m.

Today we reach the tree line and the landscape opens out to the valley of the Yalung Glacier, littered with moraines and glacial debris. We follow the northern edge of the glacier with good views of Kabru South 7317m, Rathong 6682m and Kokthang 6148m. We overnight at Ramche. 4580m.

Day 14 Rest day

We have an acclimatisation day at Ramze, and a local walk to gain height during the day is recommended, returning to spend a second night at the same altitude. This is a very important aspect of our trek and will undoubtedly assist with the success, as well as with our enjoyment of it.

Day 16 Puja in Base camp

Ceremonies mark life. Many come with a birth of a child, a union of a couple or upon death. For the Sherpa, they will not climb mountains without one such ceremony, a Puja. Every sherpa people have a strong belief that each and every mountains abodes realm of gods and goddesses.

The Puja is an important ceremony where we pay respect to the mountain and offer blessings for safe passage before heading up onto Mountain.

Our Puja consisted of a Lama (Monk) and our entire crew participating in prayers, rice and flour throwing, and 3 sips of strong whiskey (just to name a few things from our 3-hour ceremony!). The stupa will be covered in beautiful decorations and sculptures made out of butter and tsampa, with plates full of food and drinks as offerings. It was incredible to witness and to be a part of.

Accommodation: Camp 
Meals: Breakfast Lunch and Dinner

Day 17-57 Mt. Kanchenjunga 8586m. Climbing Period

We do forth and back to our various camps on the mountain to fit our body with high altitude and weather we face during the actual climbing. On the day of the summit, we walk early mid night from our final high camp so that we can reach the summit as early morning as possible so that we do get good weather to return too. As the day gets older, the weather in mountain starts to get voilent and we no one wants to be in mercy of the mountain. The time and the oxygen in our oxygen cylinder is very crucial on the day as summit is just the half way of our success. If any things gets serious(time, body fitness, Oxygen level...), there will always be next time if we live and it will be very wise decision to return back for the next day. After summit we will return back to our base camp.

Accommodation: Camp 
Meals: Breakfast Lunch and Dinner; high altitude food during climb

Day 58 Clean up Base Camp

Its cruicial to clean up our base camp so that mountain remain clean. We clean our litter and pack up our equipment for move next day.

Accommodation: Camp 
Meals: Breakfast Lunch and Dinner

Day 59 Decent trek to Tseram 3870m.

Retrace the same track used previously to Tseram. We have one more chance to to observe natural beauty of the locality which we have missed previously.

Day 60 trek to Tortong 2995m.

Retrace the same track used previously to Tseram. We have one more chance to to observe natural beauty of the locality which we have missed previously.

Day 61 Trek to Yamphudin 2080m.

Retrace the same track used previously to Tseram. We have one more chance to to observe natural beauty of the locality which we have missed previously.

Day 62 Trek to Khade Bhanjyang 2129m.

Retrace the same track used previously to Tseram. We have one more chance to to observe natural beauty of the locality which we have missed previously.

Day 63 Trek to Taplejung 1820m.

Retrace the same track used previously to Tseram. We have one more chance to to observe natural beauty of the locality which we have missed previously.

Day 66 Rest day

A chance to do some shopping, explore at leisure or merely relax by the hotel. We enjoy a final night together, reliving the trek and our extraordinary achievements.

Accommodation: Hotel
Meals include: Breakfast

Day 67 Post Expedition briefing at Ministry of Tourism

Today we have a de-briefing at the Ministry of Tourism. Remaining day is at leisure.

Evening we gather with all members and celebrate your safe return and share some adventure stories.

Accommodation: Hotel
Meals: Breakfast

Day 68 Final departure

We say 'Namaste' for memories that will last a lifetime. There are no activities planned for today and you are able to depart the hotel at any time. Check out time from the hotel is at 12 noon. If you are departing later, you can arrange luggage storage at the hotel. For your final departure, our staff will pick you up from the hotel and transfer to Kathmandu airport approximately 3 hours prior to your international flight time.

Driving hours: 40 minutes
Meals include: Breakfast

Inclusion

  • Arrival & Departure Airport transfers
  • All ground transportation
  • 6 nights in Kathmandu Hotel Gokarna Forest Resort   on BB 
  • Flight: KTM-Bhadrapur; Biratnagar-KTM with airport tax & Cargo
  • Climbing Permit, National Park fee
  • 1 Government Liaison officer and Garbage Deposit Fees
  • 1 Trekking & Base camp Manager
  • 1 Cook and Kitchen helper at the Base camp
  • 85 kgs per member for personal Equipments
  • All required porters to carry members equipment and Food & Group Equipment
  • All Nepali staffs' Insurance/ wages and equipment allowance
  • Full camping accommodation as per itinerary
  • All camping equiments for trek, Base Camp & High Camp for member & Sherpa
  • 1 Solar Pannel for light & battery charge at Base Camp
  • 1 Gas heater for Dinning tent at Base camp  
  • 1 VE 25 North Face Tent per member at Base camp
  • Base Camp Food for member & for all our Nepali staffs
  • High Altitude Climbing Sherpa- Everest Summiter
  • High Altitude Food for member & High altitude Sherpa
  • 18 EPI gas  250mg / High Altitude Cooking Pot &  cooking Stove ,
  • 6 bottle oxygen with Mask & regulator for Member
  • 4 bottle oxyent with Mask & regulator High Altitude Sherpa 
  • 1 Satelite phone and Radio Walkie talkies set for Group Use
  • All necessary Climbing route equipments
  • First Aid Kit & 1 Gamow bag for group Use
  • Farewell Dinner in Kathmandu

Exclusion

  • International Flight to Kathmandu Nepal
  • Nepalese Visa fee
  • Lunch & Dinner in Kathmandu
  • Personal Travel,  Medical and rescue Insurance
  • All personal climbing equipments for ascent
  • High Altitude Sherpa Summit bonus US$ 2500 Per Sherpa, if Summit
  • High altitude Climbing Bonus US$ 1500 Per sherpa if not Summit
  • Extra nights in Kathmandu hotel
  • Tips for supporting staffs
  • Extra Yaks or porter & Extra Oxygen bottle (on request only)
  • Emergency rescue evacuation cost if needed
  • and  All other personal nature expenses

Equipment List

Climbing:
• Climbing harness;
• One 3 metre/10 foot sling and three 2 metre/6 foot slings. • Figure 8/Abseil belay device;
• 1 large mitten sized ascender (most members use the large petzl) and arm length leash;
• 2 locking carabiners, 1 large and 1 small;
• 4 regular carabiners;
• Ice axe w/leash;
• Crampons - must fit boots perfectly. Steel crampons with anti-balling (anti-bot) plates are the best;
• Optional; Adjustable trekking poles;

Upper Body:
• 2 cotton t-shirts;
• 1 polypropylene t-shirt;
• 2 long sleeve polypropylene shirts, lightweight;
• 1 polar fleece pullovers, medium weight;
• 1 polar fleece jacket.
• Gore-Tex jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable;
• Lightweight down jacket for those chilly days in basecamp;
• For high altitude use, 1 very warm goose-down (duvet) jacket with hood, you may prefer a down/duvet suit;

Hands:
• 1 pr. lightweight poly-liner gloves. These will be worn when tying knots, but not inside your mitts;
• 1 pair mittens, consists of 1 Gore-tex over mitt matched with the very warm polar fleece mitt liner

Head:
• Helmet;
• Warm hat wool or synthetic that covers your ears;
• Balaclava;
• Face mask;
• Ballcap or brimmed suncap;
• Glacier sunglasses with side shields (you can purchase these inexpensively in Kathmandu, including prescription sunglasses, which can be made for $20, it might take a week or two);
• 1 pair ski goggles (Optional) with light and dark lens;
• Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs;
• Bandana or head scarf, also useful for dusty conditions.

Lower Body:
• Cotton underwear briefs;
• 1 pair walking shorts;
• 1 pair walking trousers for trekking and around camp;
• 2 pair lightweight thermal bottoms;
• 1 pair medium or expedition weight thermal bottoms;
• 1 pair polar fleece trousers;
• 1 pair Gore-Tex trousers, salopettes, or bibs. Waterproof/breathable with full side zips;
• 1 pr. Goose-down (duvet) trousers , salopettes or bibs. You may prefer a down (duvet) suit.
Your clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags.

Feet:
• 1 pair One-Sport Millet boots or equivalent;
• 1 pair sturdy leather walking boots with good ankle support (we mean leather trekking, not climbing boots) for the walk to advanced basecamp;
• 1 pair trainers, running shoes and/or sandals for Kathmandu and in camp;
• 1 pair down booties (optional);
• 2 pair med-heavy poly or wool socks;
• 2- pair of liner socks. Polypropylene or wool;
• 2 pair lightweight trekking socks, poly or wool;
• vapour barrier liner socks or plastic bread-bags;
• Cotton socks for in town.

Sleeping:
• For high altitude, 1 down (duvet) sleeping bag (rated to – 20 Centigrade or -0 Fahrenheit). In the high camp, you can sleep in your down (duvet) clothing inside your sleeping bag;
• 1 additional sleeping bag for basecamp (good to -10 degrees C or 10 degrees F);
• At least 3 closed cell foam kari-mats for use in basecamp and high altitude, We do not recommend inflatable mats, as we have never seen one not puncture. You can buy these non inflatable mats very inexpensively in Kathmandu. Why carry foam mats around the world, when you can purchase them inexpensively in Kathmandu?
Your sleeping bags should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags.
Rucksack and Travel Bags:
• 1 medium rucksack (50-70 litres / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used for airplane carry);
• 2 large (120 L / 7500 cubic inch) duffle kit bags for clothing and equipment. Must be durable for use on pack animals;
• Small padlocks for duffel kit bags

Personal Hygiene:
• female or male hygiene supplies;
• 2 tubes lip sun cream, 1 large tube skin sun cream (min. factor 15);
• anti-mosquito cream;
• 1 toothpaste/brush;
• 1 bar soap or hand sanitizer gel/1 small towel;
• hand wipes.
Medical:
Medications are inexpensive and readily available in Kathmandu with no Doctor`s prescription:
• small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, first-aid tape, plasters (band-aids), personal medications, etc. The leaders will have extensive first-aid kits, so leave anything extra behind. Please let your leader know about any medical issues before the climb;
• 1 skin blister repair kit;
• 1 small bottle anti-diarrhea pills;
• 1 small bottle anti-headache pills;
• 1 small bottle cough and/or cold medicine;
• 1 small bottle anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide. For more about this medication,
• 1 small bottle stomach antibiotic: Ciprofloxacin, etc.;
• Do not bring sleeping pills. They are a respiratory depressant;
• 1 small bottle of water purification tablets or water filter;
• 1 set earplugs;
• Extra prescription glasses, contact lens supplies. Contact lens wearers, please bring glasses in case of emergency. A new pair could be quickly made in Kathmandu, Lhasa, or Kashgar for just $ 20. Please order upon arrival if you are interested.
Personal Food:
Our skillful cooks prepare 3 delicious hot meals and plenty of drinks each day in basecamp and advanced basecamp.
On the mountain we supply plenty of food for you to cook 3 hot meals each day. This food will consist of soup, local cheese & sausage, biscuits, dried noodles, potatoes, rice, porridge, butter, dried and tinned vegetables, fruit, meats, and fish, tea with milk and sugar, powdered juice drink, and drinking chocolate. Our sherpas will be carrying this food to the higher camps.
• We ask each member to bring their own imported daily snack and energy foods. We also ask members to bring 5 dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for their summit attempt. We do not provide cold “snack” food such as chocolate or "energy-bars". We ask that you bring or buy your own "snack" or daily cold energy food, 3-6 kilos is a good amount. A growing variety of imported foods such as European and American cheeses, chocolates, biscuits, cookies, nuts, and locally made power-bars are now available in Kathmandu, at realistic prices. However, imported power bars, GU, re-hydration drinks, dehydrated food, "freeze-dried meals", imported cheese and sausage are not available. If you want these items, you must bring them from your home country. Many of our members, especially Britons, Europeans, and Australians with tiny baggage allowances, now purchase their daily snacks in Kathmandu. Our schedule in Kathmandu allows plenty of time for shopping.
Practical:
• 1 small roll of repair tape, 1 sewing repair kit;
• 1 cigarette lighter, 1 small box matches;
• 1 compass or GPS;
• 1 battery powered alarm clock/watch;
• 1 camera and film, or digital camera with extra cards and extra batteries;
• nylon stuff sacks For food and gear storage, large Ziplocs are useful also;
• 3 Water bottles (1 litre) wide-mouth Nalgene (1 is a pee bottle);
• 1 plastic cup and spoon;
• 1 small folding knife;
• binoculars (optional);
• 4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks;
• passport, 2 extra passport photos, flight ticket, flight itinerary;
• separate photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance;
• dollars, pounds or euros cash for purchasing Nepalese visa at Kathmandu airport, Tibet visa, for paying for restaurants and hotels, for gratuities, snacks, and to purchase your own drinks and gifts. Climbing members are requested to bring at least $1500 cash with them to Tibet.
• credit cards, Bank/ATM/Cash machine cards for use for withdrawing funds from cash machines (bring a photocopy of your cards), traveler's checks, etc.;
• 1 bathing suit/swimming costume (you never know);
• basecamp entertainment. It is good to bring additional items which you have found to be useful on previous expeditions. For example: paperback books, playing cards, ipod mp3 player, short-wave radio, game boys, musical instruments, ear plugs, lots of batteries, etc.;
• travel clothes for basecamp and in town.
• Please be sure and bring your patience and try to keep an open, relaxed, positive and friendly attitude as travelling in this part of the world may be very different than what you are used to, but things always seem to fall into place at the last moment. Thank you.
Oxygen:
On Mountains, although some climbers wish to try it without, most members will prefer to have oxygen available and we only allow members to climb with the use of supplemental oxygen. Regarding oxygen, the cost is up to you. Some people want 1 bottle, others want 12. We suggest you bring five. All of the equipment is guaranteed to work well together, and it is easy to use, with simple threaded and snap-on fittings which require no tools. Our sherpas will try to help you carry the oxygen. We have a 40% buy back policy bottles on unused oxygen, and masks, hoses, and regulators in good condition. For more information about Oxygen,
Note: You may have to carry some or all of your own oxygen on summit day, as well as up and down the mountain. If possible, the group sherpas will help stock the high camps, as well as share in carrying extra bottles during summit attempts. If you are concerned you might not be able to carry your own oxygen, you may wish to hire a personal sherpa.

Group Equipment:
We provide a plethora of top-quality, and time-tested equipment, group gear, and supplies, including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp, advanced basecamp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. We now provide an individual tent for each member in basecamp, so you do not have to share. We also have a shower and toilet tent for Basecamp. Please see the group EQUIPMENT link, in the menu bars above to study what we bring for your use and safety.
This Expedition equipment list has been prepared by Adventure Zambuling Treks (P) Ltd.
Please submit any equipment questions or concerns to: info@advzambuling.com

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